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Thread: Chamberline MYQ openers not compatible with RA2 Visor Control

  1. #21
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2016
    Quote Originally Posted by 10-SE View Post
    Lutron Visor Controls and Lutron Garage Controller have been successfully integrated so MyQ garage doors will open and lights will turn on or off with a button press on the visor controllers. It required some extra work because Liftmaster MyQ series garage openers no longer use a simple contact closure to open/close doors, but use serial secure 2.0 communication. To work around this I had Zach solder leads to the continuity pathways of the micro switches on the circuit board of a Liftmaster remote. See attached pics. I connected those leads to the contact closure trigger terminals of the Lutron Controller. Then it all worked once Lutron Visor control buttons were learned to the particular scene buttons on the Lutron Garage controller. Huge thanks to Zach at Sound Shoppe, Bishop CA for the professional soldering. He's experienced and has all the stuff: holders, clamps, pinchers, magnifier etc.
    10-SE, thanks! I happened across this thread while trying to figure out why moving two wires from a MyQ wall switch to VCRX resulted in nothing happening at the opener. Rather than wire up a bunch of wall switches, I went with your solution and used a Liftmaster remote, because you can get them with three discrete buttons, they're much smaller than a single wall controller, and it means one VCRX with one small device next to it, can control up to three doors. I've never soldered in my life but it was fairly easy to get the job done. I just had to use a multi-meter to figure out which solder points around the contact switches went to 0 ohm when the button was pressed, and then soldered the leads to those. I also soldered in +/- leads to the battery contact points and have the remote powered by the same Lutron power brick as the VCRX (with a 5vdc buck; see below), so the remote will never need a battery or battery change. VCRX and the remote are hidden in a wall enclosure near the doors since contact switches are also wired in.[pre].[/pre]FYI for anyone wanting to try this and powering via the Lutron power bricks / wall warts, model T120-DC9, seems to output a ridiculously different voltage than what is stated on the label. I tried three different units I had handy and all three are in the 14.4vdc range, nowhere close to 9v. The table top keypads, main repeater, aux repeaters, etc. all use these, and all seem to tolerate the 14.4v input. The garage remote I was about to power from it uses a pair of batteries to run at 6vdc though, so I was concerned I might fry something if I put 240% of the proper voltage in. I found a twelve pack of DC buck converters on amazon for $1/ea, which drop up to 24vdc down to a configurable output; I went with 5vdc which the remote seemed fine with.
    Quote Originally Posted by joshg View Post
    this is great, but would be even better if the system can detect if door is open or closed. Then you could do things like "at midnight, close garage door" and system would know if it were up or down (like MyQ's own app does) and not end up inadvertently OPENING a closed garage door. Then it would work just like lights do. It means I also could have zone-sensing keypad buttons that show a light when door is open, and goes off when door is closed... and pressing button either opens or closes door, as appropriate. I suspect, to do that, we need either the connect bridge for radio ra or IFTTT integration or a direct link for MyQ from Lutron.
    You can wire two contact switches into the VCRX, so you can add two floor mount contact switches to two doors, and connect to inputs 1 and 2 on the VCRX. Depending on how you want things to be triggered, just get contact switches that have three wires so you can choose between NC/NO by using the right wires.
    Quote Originally Posted by Mike Greene View Post
    Yes that is an option, but I preferred to tie to the wall control for a cleaner install. Nearly all of my installs are for very high end luxury homes.
    Garage wall controls themselves are pretty ugly. Using VCRX+garage remote hack, and hiding them away, you can instead use a keypad, wall mount tabletop, or even a pico to be the garage door switch.
    Quote Originally Posted by dvpvic View Post
    And rely on the battery of that little remote? When u have a high end client last thing I�m going to tell them is; Yea if your door quits opening just change that battery. I hard wired my Home first, and have done all other jobs the same.
    You don't use the battery, you power it.

  2. #22
    I would highly recommend a module from Creative Access Solutions ( I am using the Universal Security+ 2.0™ Interface Module with my Visor Control Receiver and my LiftMaster 8550. It works great.

    I also added two magnetic contact sensors to the garage door: one in the down position and the other in the up position. These sensors plug into the VCRX and I then add two phantom switches.When Input 1 (magnetic contact closure sensor in standard closed position) is Open (OH door is open), the "OH Door Closed Status" will be turned OFF/FALSE. When Input 1 is Close (OH door is closed), the switch will be turned ON/TRUE.When Input 2 (magnetic contact closure sensor in opened position) is Open (OH door is closed), the "OH Door Opened Status" switch will be turned OFF/FALSE. When Input 2 is Close (OH door is fully opened), the switch will be turned ON/TRUE.

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