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Thread: Trouble adding RRD-8ANS with RD-RS

  1. #1
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    Trouble adding RRD-8ANS with RD-RS

    So I thought this should just be fairly simple. In a mudroom we have a three way connection, two switches for the one light above. It's like pulling teeth getting kids to turn it off and we want it on as soon as you open the door. The plan was to install the 8ANS with the RD-RS and controlled with an occupancy/vacancy sensor. Our house is 18 years old but it has neutrals, that doesn't mean the electrician had the same technique in each box I guess. We installed the 8ANS on the load side, it has what we thought was the correct wires, including the neutral. In the companion box it has one less wire, and the white was marked with a black marker as hot. Following the diagram we hooked it up and tested with a 60W incandescent bulb. What we got was the bulb flashing every second or two and no control from the switches. It seems like the wiring may not support what we are trying to do?

    Erik

  2. #2
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    3-way switches are basically A/B switches. Power comes in on one end (black screw) and goes out on either traveler A or traveler B. At the other end power comes in on one of the travelers and out to the light on the black screw. As long as both switches are connected to A or B the light will be on.

    It sounds like you have what is called a dead-end 3-way. The electrician is using the white wire (marked black) either as a traveler or to relay power or the switch leg (wire going up to the light) to the "dead-end." This will still work but you can only put the RS at the dead end. You will need to know which wire was connected used for the relay and if he was relaying the power/hot or the switch leg (wire up to the light). At the non-dead-end, check the black, red, and white/black to see which one is not connected to the switch. Most of the time the black will be connected to either the hot (usually a group of wires) or the switch leg (a single black conductor.

    If he relayed power using the black conductor, install the RS at the dead-end. Red to blue, Black to black, white/black to brass. Install the 8ANS at the other end. White/black to black, red to blue, black to brass, white to silver.

    If he relayed the switch leg using the black wire, install the RS at the dead end. Black-brass, white/black to black, red to blue. Install the 8ANS at the other end. Black to black, white/black to brass, red to blue.

    You may have to adjust the connections to reflect the color of the conductor he used as a relay.
    Convergence Technologies Raleigh, North Carolina
    www.convergenceusa.com

  3. #3
    Quote Originally Posted by randyc View Post
    3-way switches are basically A/B switches. Power comes in on one end (black screw) and goes out on either traveler A or traveler B. At the other end power comes in on one of the travelers and out to the light on the black screw. As long as both switches are connected to A or B the light will be on.

    It sounds like you have what is called a dead-end 3-way. The electrician is using the white wire (marked black) either as a traveler or to relay power or the switch leg (wire going up to the light) to the "dead-end." This will still work but you can only put the RS at the dead end. You will need to know which wire was connected used for the relay and if he was relaying the power/hot or the switch leg (wire up to the light). At the non-dead-end, check the black, red, and white/black to see which one is not connected to the switch. Most of the time the black will be connected to either the hot (usually a group of wires) or the switch leg (a single black conductor.

    If he relayed power using the black conductor, install the RS at the dead-end. Red to blue, Black to black, white/black to brass. Install the 8ANS at the other end. White/black to black, red to blue, black to brass, white to silver.

    If he relayed the switch leg using the black wire, install the RS at the dead end. Black-brass, white/black to black, red to blue. Install the 8ANS at the other end. Black to black, white/black to brass, red to blue.

    You may have to adjust the connections to reflect the color of the conductor he used as a relay.
    Use a PICO. Much simpler and you do not have to be such a detective.

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  5. #4
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    Just now getting back to this. So this picture seems like what we have. The switch on the right side is where we have the white wire with a black sharpie line on it. Just seems odd to us in how it was wired.

  6. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ekkoville View Post
    Just now getting back to this. So this picture seems like what we have. The switch on the right side is where we have the white wire with a black sharpie line on it. Just seems odd to us in how it was wired.
    Edit....the picture didn't come through. In the link attached, we are in option #3 for the wiring.

    https://www.easy-do-it-yourself-home...g-diagram.html

    Click image for larger version. 

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  7. #6
    The 2 wire cable on the left side is your Hot and Neutral

    Place the 8ANS on the left side.
    Hot (Black) goes to the Black screw
    Neutral (White) gets a jumper so 1 part continues to the bulb and the other wire goes to the Silver screw.
    The red wire is a straight traveler so attach the red to the blue screw on both switches.
    The other black wire is a traveller that is attached to the white traveler near the bulb. Therefore attach that black at the 8 ANS to the Brass and attach the white by RD-RS to the Black. The other Black on the right side is the switch leg (Load). That is attached to the Brass on the RD-RS.

  8. #7
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    We'll have to try that, that looks like the connections we made the first time and we got a flashing bulb.

  9. #8
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    Well all we got now is a press of either switch an the light goes on and off once. One press, on and off. Very frustrating, it seems as if maybe we don't know what is up in the wall.

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