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Thread: PD-6WCL LED bulb Glows Dimly When Off

  1. #1

    PD-6WCL LED bulb Glows Dimly When Off

    I have a PD-6WCL dimmer on a ceiling-fan's light. Works well other than the LED bulbs (included with the fan) glow very dimly when turned off. The glow is much dimmer than the lowest dim setting so I assume this is from the small current passing through the lights due to the PD-6WCL completing its circuit without having a neutral.

    Do the LED bulbs on the compatible list have this same characteristic?

    If so, does using the PD-5NE eliminate it?

    Thanks...

  2. #2
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    You are correct in your thinking on the soft glow. The PD-5NE or PD-10NXD would most likely eliminate the glow. Some have tried the LUT-MLC shunt capacitor with success.
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  3. #3
    I tried swapping to the PD-5NE and I'm still getting the ghosting. I tried both phase settings but both were the same.

    I've ordered a LUT-MLC to see if that will help. Will be about a week before that comes in an I can install it.

    On the LUT-MLC installation, the instructions mention putting it in the fixture's box or another box in the circuit. Would code prohibit putting it in the same box as the switch?

    I took a look at the Baker Electric site. Do you have any galleries or videos of your installations?

    Thanks...

  4. #4
    I installed the LUT-MLCs to each of the three affected circuits and the ghosting is gone. Simple solution. Could probably have saved the money on the PD-5NEs but the added neutral wire seemed like the more likely fix at the time. Hey, the preset dim button is worth the extra $60 each, right? Oh, well...

    Had another ghosting problem with a PD-3PCL lamp module. My daughter has some non-dimming colored LED bulbs that I put on the PD-3PCL set for non-dimming mode. Three LED bulbs on the circuit and they ghosted. I wired a LUT-MLC to a two-prong plug and plugged it into the second outlet on the PD-3PCL. Once again, ghosting is gone.

    Total system now is 24 wall switches, 2 lamp modules, 17 Picos, and the Smart Bridge for 44 of the 50 supported devices. Might add one more Pico. House is two-stories, 2400 sq ft. The outside lights are on timer switches and I didn't do bathrooms or closets. Those would have pushed me over the 50 device limit.

  5. #5
    Junior Member
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    3
    Quote Originally Posted by Larry in TN View Post
    I installed the LUT-MLCs to each of the three affected circuits and the ghosting is gone. Simple solution. Could probably have saved the money on the PD-5NEs but the added neutral wire seemed like the more likely fix at the time. Hey, the preset dim button is worth the extra $60 each, right? Oh, well...

    Had another ghosting problem with a PD-3PCL lamp module. My daughter has some non-dimming colored LED bulbs that I put on the PD-3PCL set for non-dimming mode. Three LED bulbs on the circuit and they ghosted. I wired a LUT-MLC to a two-prong plug and plugged it into the second outlet on the PD-3PCL. Once again, ghosting is gone.

    Total system now is 24 wall switches, 2 lamp modules, 17 Picos, and the Smart Bridge for 44 of the 50 supported devices. Might add one more Pico. House is two-stories, 2400 sq ft. The outside lights are on timer switches and I didn't do bathrooms or closets. Those would have pushed me over the 50 device limit.
    Sir,
    I have same issue about ghosting LED lamp. Do you have diagram or video about installation? I don’t understand where I install or connect LUT-MLCs on circuit.

    many thanks..

  6. #6
    Quote Originally Posted by iand28 View Post
    Sir,
    I have same issue about ghosting LED lamp. Do you have diagram or video about installation? I don’t understand where I install or connect LUT-MLCs on circuit.
    It goes in the light fixture's electrical box between the power lead and the neutral. It is wired in parallel with the light, if you're familiar with that term.

    In the simplest installation, you'll have a black, white, and copper lead coming into the fixture's box which are connected to the two leads for the light and the light's ground (often a green wire). The LUT-MLC would connect between the black and white wires.

    Search Google for "LUT-MLC Installation" and look through the image results.



  7. #7
    Junior Member
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    Jun 2018
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    Thank you for your replay Sir.. I will figure out my circiut scheme.

    One more question, Install 1 LUT-LMLs will solve for the whole circuit? Or every LED has to install the LMLs?
    Because my plan is to change more than 5 regular switch to Lutron Caseta wireless switch for controlling more than 10 LED bulb.

    Thanks..

  8. #8
    Junior Member
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    Jun 2018
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    Quote Originally Posted by Larry in TN View Post
    It goes in the light fixture's electrical box between the power lead and the neutral. It is wired in parallel with the light, if you're familiar with that term.

    In the simplest installation, you'll have a black, white, and copper lead coming into the fixture's box which are connected to the two leads for the light and the light's ground (often a green wire). The LUT-MLC would connect between the black and white wires.

    Search Google for "LUT-MLC Installation" and look through the image results.


    Thank you for your replay sir.. I will figure out my circuit scheme after this.

    but, one more question, should I have to install LUT-MLC for each LED bulb or enough one for all circuit? I have plan to replace 5 or more regular switchs with Lurton caseta for controlling more than 10 bulb.

    Thank you..

  9. #9
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2017
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    26
    One LUT-MLC per switch, you can put it in the fixture or you can put it in same box as the switch. The purpose of the LUT-MLC is to provide a path for current to flow from the switch to allow the switch to operate, you see the ghosting because the switch sends a small parasitic current through the fixture to operate, the LUT-MLC gives a path for that current which is not through the bulb.
    -Matt

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