Caseta PD-6WCL's on track lights? Halogens?

[Octocide]

Hello everyone – this is my first time diving into the whole switch/bulb/fixture problem so be gentle ;). Before we get started, I’ve made extensive use of the Lutron compatibility tools to no avail.

Here is the hardware setup and I’ll list the problems afterwards. I have 2 setups that I’m working with, both involve the same model of track light (2 individual units).

Setup 1: Lutron Diva Dimmer in wall DV-600P hooked up to a track light from Art Electronics Lighting Co., Ltd. with 3 heads, dated August 1992. Each head has a transformer and this is what they say on each

Model: ART-T02
INPUT: AC 120V ± 10% 50/60Hz
OUTPUT: AC 12V ? 50W MAX

I’m not sure the style of track since it’s so old, but each of the heads has a Halogen bulb in it, they say FIRTON 12V50W EXN on them. My research tells me these are type MR16 halogens with a GU5.3 base (bi pin NO twist lock).

Setup 2: Lutron Caseta PD-6WCL-WH in wall Dimmer hooked up to a different track light (same exact model and bulbs as above).

Problem 1: On the first setup, there is a terrible whine/buzz noise. My guess is, after looking at the dimmer (it clearly says on the side) that it’s for incandescent lights only. I never set this up and my condo seems to have come this way. SO, I want to fix the whine/buzz at the least, but if I can, get a newer wireless dimmer on this that works (not absolutely necessary). See solutions proposed below.

Problem 2: On the second setup, I have my new Caseta dimmer (which I really like) but have two issues, a slight hum/whine/buzz and a bigger issue, that randomly after about 2 hours of usage, at any brightness, the entire fixture will slowly “wink” in and out. Meaning, it will dim and turn off, but then brighten and turn on again. This behavior continues for a few seconds and sometimes corrects itself, but most of the time I have to turn off the dimmer to get it to stop. I initially thought this was a bad dimmer, but when I called technical support to get a replacement, I was given the run around. Shouldn’t the Caseta PD-6WCL’s be compatible with Halogens per it’s spec sheet here?

https://a89b8e4143ca50438f09-7c1706b...pdf?1440218219

What causes this winking behavior? And do I have a bad dimmer?

Okay, so how do I begin to start fixing things? I’m trying to find the cheapest all around solution but I’m running into issues. Here’s what I’m thinking I’m going to do, so holler if this doesn’t sound right. Here’s what I THINK my options are.

1. Option 1: Replace ALL the halogen bulbs with LED equivalents at same specs. I don’t think this will work for at least setup #1 because the dimmer isn’t compatible, but does that matter? With the transformer being inside each of the housings for each of the lights, I would assume that the dimmer doesn’t care? I’m HOPEING this works for setup #2 but I don’t know of a compatible LED bulb with the Caseta PD-6WCL line (the online compatibility tool isn’t showing me anything for a GU5.2 socket) so I’m unsure this will work as well. Here is what I’m thinking of purchasing on Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...UO3OSMSE&psc=1 Do you think these would work in at LEAST the one on the Caseta dimmer? Thoughts?

1. Option 2: Replace the fixtures and bulbs altogether with newer stuff. I’d like to also get everything on the Caseta PD-6WCL’s, but I am having a HUGE PROBLEM finding ANY compatible track lighting. Like none. Any advice here on brands/models of track lighting fixtures that work with the Caseta PD-6WCL’s would be great. Or do I need to NOT worry about brands of track lights, just bulbs? Doesn’t the transformer in the fixture matter? I’d be willing to scrap my old dimmers (Maestro’s and Diva’s on the first setup) for a newer Caseta IF I knew it would work with ANY track lighting fixture (Preferably LED). Here’s the only thing on Amazon that “looked” like it might be compatible with the Lutron Caseta PD-6WCL’s, provided I put the right lamps in the and buy the right track…will this work?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...O7QIJKKM&psc=1

1. Scrap all the dimmers and just go with switches. I really don’t want to do this as I like all the wireless functionality with my Caseta’s, but dimming isn’t something that I have to have (lower priority). I have not tried a Caseta on/off switch yet that is wireless, but if it worked and gave me wireless functionality and no buzz/winking, I’d consider it. Would that work on a halogen fixture?

Some other things of note:

I have another (older) Lutron Dimmer, it’s the MAESTRO MAW-600 but it says “single location incandescent dimmer” so I’m not sure that’s much help. The odd thing is, Lutron’s product selection tool doesn’t have the MAW-600, they just have the MAW-600H…I would assume the difference is “H for Halogen?”. Am I that close (yet SOOO far away?) from solving the buzz problem?

Thanks for all the help in advance. If there is another option I’m not thinking of, please share it. On my first attempt at fixing this (purchasing) anything I will probably be pairing down to 3 newer LED bulbs to try in both fixtures, just to see what happens. That’s at least half the problem almost solved…I hope. Halp!

I can provide pics if need be.

[randyc]

Do not put LED MR16s on transformers from 1992. If you can't determine that the transformer is specifically rated for LEDs, replace the whole thing.

Use a neutral dimmer (PD-10NXD) for anything with a transformer/driver. Even this won't help with transformers/drivers from that era.

Some transformers/drivers are leading edge, aka forward phase. Some are trailing edge, aka reverse phase. Make sure your dimmer is compatible.

The GU10 is a 120v bulb (no transformer/driver). The 6CL or 10NDX should work fine with it. The GU10 doesn't have as many options (beam width, color, etc.).

You are going to be better off if you can stick with a name brand bulb. Cree, GE, Philips, Osram/Sylvania. You may find another brand that works well but I try to stick with the brand names.