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Thread: Can't turn lights off anymore

  1. #1
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2018
    Posts
    2

    Angry Can't turn lights off anymore

    Today I installed a Caseta dimmer switch (first time working with Caseta, but I've done a moderate amount of other house electrical work before). The switch and remote replaced two toggle-switches that formed a 3-way circuit to control some dimmable LED track lights (also a recent install but been working properly for a week). At first everything worked well for about ten minutes, then after I had tested and played with the various functions I decided to attach the faceplate. As I was adjusting the faceplate the lights slowly dimmed to about 20%. Now they will not adjust in brightness or even turn off in response to either the switch or remote. I uninstalled the switch and put a toggle switch in its place, and the toggle switch worked fine. A non-fancy boring dimmer switch with no remote also worked fine with the track lights.

    The green LEDs on the switch and remote are responsive and behaving as if the switch and remote are functioning correctly, the lyin little punks. House built in 1988, and some of the wiring is a bit "non-standard" at times, but this switch seems normal.

    Anyone ever seen this failure mode before? I feel being able to turn the lights off is a key function of a light switch.

  2. #2
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Posts
    2,587
    You want to be able to dim AND turn the lights off? Homeowners are so demanding!!

    It sounds like a wiring issue. In a 3-way application you have to connect the wires together and install a jumper. This essentially converts the circuit to a single location with a Pico remote at the other end.

    Also, make sure the plate is not pressing on the buttons of the dimmer.
    Convergence Technologies Raleigh, North Carolina
    www.convergenceusa.com

  3. #3
    When you removed the original 3-way switches, at the first location you should have used one Common (the identified terminal on the 3-way) and one Traveler, then cap off the 3rd wire, also a Traveler. At the second location, you should have wire nutted together the Common and one Traveler, capping off the same Traveler and in the first location.
    Install the Pico Remote using the required wall adapter.
    Does that make sense? It that what you did?

  4. #4
    Quote Originally Posted by 3D Design View Post
    When you removed the original 3-way switches, at the first location you should have used one Common (the identified terminal on the 3-way) and one Traveler, then cap off the 3rd wire, also a Traveler. At the second location, you should have wire nutted together the Common and one Traveler, capping off the same Traveler and in the first location.
    Install the Pico Remote using the required wall adapter.
    Does that make sense? It that what you did?
    Another option for wiring it so follow the first example in the guide on pages 1-5.
    http://www.casetawireless.com/Docume...ced%20Inst.pdf

  5. #5
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2018
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    2
    Problem solved!

    I had already capped together the wires from the second switch, and tested the continuity of the whole circuit. That part I knew was fine. The problem actually turned out to be incompatible LEDs. Once I replaced a couple with incandescent bulbs the switch worked fine. I now know it actually is important to purchase the LEDs off their "approved" list!

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