Anyone else having to replace Lutron switches with broken bezels that won't stay on?

[wkearney99]

I, too, have this problem; two broken bevels on rocker dimmer switches.

No one makes switches that are immune to abuse.

[Dr. Air]

I HAVE A FIX THAT ABSOLUTELY WORKS! I POSTED THE PROCEDURE IN DETAIL. ESSENTIALLY, IT'S CREATING AN "AXIS" FOR THE PADDLE TO SWING ON. See details in my post above -- Dr. Air, dated 7/19/22.

[uAintThatTall]

5 switches have gone bad all in the last 6 months!

[Dr. Air]

Responding to uAintThatTall.
I received an email from Lutron Support that showed the above post today. Do you have a question?
I'm not good at navigating or interacting with this forum. Feel free to email me at wheeoo@cox.net.
I do have a fix for the rocker switch which is simple and will last forever.
Stan (aka Dr. Air)

[John Bee]

This post has been very helpful. I was able to carefully take the rocker switch off the switch assembly without unscrewing anything or having to disconnect the wires. It's easy to pry it off but the spring and spring assembly may fall off. I replaced the spring and assembly on the back of the rocker switch and taped a very thin piece of plastic (as described by n1oconnor earlier in this thread) to the outside of the small plastic "box" that holds the spring in place. I taped it on the same side as the broken bevel on the back of the switch plate. Gently snapped it back in place and everything works! The rocking action isn't as smooth as before but it works and is better than replacing the entire switch assembly because one tiny piece of plastic broke off the back of the switch plate. It's ridiculous that Lutron doesn't sell replacement rocker switch plates. It has to be about a $.10 piece of plastic.

[Dr. Air]

I got an email out of the blue from a forum member who I tried to reach years ago. I described a reliable and simple fix (for the handy) on 7-19-22. The switch that I repaired still works perfectly after 5 years. My original post is above....
Dr. Air

[Dr. Air]

See post #28.
Dr. Air

[Moonsha]

Placing a piece of a cut up credit card worked on the opposite side of the missing bezels or prong worked for me! THANK YOU

[Dr. Air]

I had the same problem, tore my 4-way switch apart, and got nowhere. Went to this website and learned from your inquiry that the problem was with a broken bezel that was removable. So, I removed the bezel and immediately saw a possible fix.
While holding the paddle firmly in its proper place, drill a hole (using the thinnest drill bit -- a #60 or .040) through the side of the bezel and into the pivot point (middle) of the paddle. You only need to go 1/4" or less into the paddle, and you don't have to worry about drilling to perfection (I even went crooked enough to see the tip of the drill trying to exit the outer surface of the paddle!). Next, take an ordinary small paper clip, open it up, insert the end into the bezel and side of the paddle. Be careful to get the two holes lined up perfectly, because the paper clip fits snugly. Also, make sure the clip bottoms out in the hole in the paddle. Lastly, pull the paper clip very slightly back outwards and use a cutting pliers to snip the clip at the bezel surface. Then just push the piece of paper clip back into the hole to recess it (I used the leftover paper clip as the pusher).
PS: I first tried to remove the bezel/paddle assembly from an old spare 3-way switch fix my broken 4-way, but it also broke in the process! So, I fixed that switch as well.
Hope this helps. If you have any questions, you can email me at wheeoo@cox.net.

6/27/24 -- I have received emails from time to time regarding the paragraph above, as well as different solutions that have seemed to work for others, though not absolutely perfectly. I regret that I did not previously include photos, as the part names can be confusing, the fix is not easy to visualize, and the fix itself requires some finesse. My fix does not require removing any wires, but the switch has to be pulled part way out of the receptacle box. I personally found it easier to take the time to disconnect the wires and remove the switch from the box, so that the plate can be hand-held in its proper resting off position while drilling, etc. No springs or other parts are removed.
The fix is essentially the replacement of the tiny plastic protruding rod that broke off the inner surface of the bezel with a metal rod (i.e. the piece of paper clip). When finished, the assembly is like new -- no wobbling, no misalignment, smooth switching, etc.
Hope this helps.

[Dr. Air]

this sounds confusing; do you have any photos of the process?

ProfBernie, check out my recent post #39 which explains things slightly better. It's been 2 years, so you may have fixed the problem by now. However, if you still need something like pictures, I can try to do that. (Don't currently know how to post pics on this site, but if I have to learn, I will).