Convert Maestro installation to Wireless, which RA and can I use Caseta?

[Bruce0]

I did connect it that way (plus silver to neutral), but did not work.

Note that in the case where the master dimmer is on the load end of the circuit, the first remote dimmer has BLACK connected to supply as you say, but the master dimmer has BLACK (not red) connected to Load.

This shows up in various documents, most clearly here:
https://a89b8e4143ca50438f09-7c1706b...pdf?1440168154

Basically if the master dimmer is on the supply end, it goes black in - red out all the way down the chain, but if the master dimmer is on the load end, it goes red in black out all the way down the chain.

This is also documented (albeit less clearly) on this installation documents on the lutron site: http://www.lutron.com/TechnicalDocum...y/0301122A.pdf

So my problem is that since the master dimmer MUST be installed on the load end, and (as you say) they specify that the black screw connects to the load) and because I don't really know the function of the old style travelers or the new style travelers, it is unclear how to hook it up.

[randyc]

3-way switches are basically A/B switches. They either connect the power in to the red or black traveler, at the other end they connect the red or black traveler to the load. 4-ways are a bizarre device that either connects straight through (A-A/B-B) or alternates the connection (A-B/A-B).

This is a more recent installation instruction that shows the wiring method I described (see wiring diagram 6). Since you have older devices the brass terminal may be a red wire and the blue terminal may be a blue wire.

http://www.lutron.com/TechnicalDocum...ry/044319b.pdf

[SDR-Mike]

I concur with randyc- I have used the MAR remote dimmer with RadioRA2 extensively with no issues. My own personal system had the very old MAR with the FASS that slid right to left instead of pulling out. No issues at all. I have even mixed and matched the remote switches with dimmers and remote dimmers with switches, just makes for an "ugly" install until we can correct it.

[Bruce0]

RandyC... Thanks so much for all your help. I am wondering if the issue I am having is the neutral wire.

I have tried the wiring just as you describe, and it does not work. The same wiring with an RD-RD does work.

I just ordered 9 more RD-RD remotes, to get the job done, but I am wondering if you have ever tried it with a neutral wire dimmer?

That is, have you tried it with an RRD-10ND or an RRD-6ND?

(As opposed to an RRD-10D which does not have a neutral).

Just curious, I have ordered the RD-RD's now, but I was just curious if the Neutral wire is the issue. Or maybe I have a fried MA-R or something.

[Bruce0]

I tried one of the MAR's that had the pull out tab, with a RRD-6NA and with an RRD-6ND with MLV and it worked in both cases.

I think maybe I had a fried MA-R, I will try one of the old style MA-R's (left to right ) and report back.

Thanks for your help, (and sorry if it turns out that this was just because I had one broken MA-R)

[Bruce0]

Sorry, all my fault.

I somehow had one bad MA-R remote, and it made me think that it didn't work. When I started using the other MA-R's on site, it works just as expected.

I have verified that it works (unsupported by lutron) with MA-R new style with both 6ND and 6NA dimmers, and with MA-R old style with 6ND (didn't try 6NA).

And as you both said, you just wire it based on the RRD instruction insert but on the remote you call Brass Screw=Red Wire, Black Screw=Black wire, Blue Screw=Blue Wire.

Thanks for all your help!