Convert Maestro installation to Wireless, which RA and can I use Caseta?

[Bruce0]

I have an existing installation with approx. 15 Maestro multilocation MLV (Magnetic low voltage) dimmer circuits with smart dimmers (mostly MALV-600 ) and remote dimmers (MA-R).


All of them are controlling MLV halogens, it is a 120V system.


I want to convert to be able to control these dimmers from Homekit or Google Assistant.


1) Can I do that by replacing the MALV-(600/1000's) with Maestro Wireless ( MRF2-6MLV, MRF2-6ND-120 which one?). Is it true that I can leave the existing MA-R remotes in place and the remote switches will continue to function as they do now?


The Caseta multi-button switch design is not acceptable for this installation it need to maintain the existing maestro single button look ( And while some of the lutron documents for example the "System Comparison" overview say I can, most documents say I cannot use Caseta with those Maestro dimmers, so what do I need to use?


Can I use something else like Radio RA2 or RA2 Select, and again the documents are inconsistent on whether or not those can support Homekit.

Is the difference between Radio RA2 and RA2 Select simply the presence of a repeater separate from the Connect Bridge?

[AustinB.]

In my opinion you would be looking at doing a Ra-Select system. This will allow for Homekit or Google Assistant using the Ra-Select main repeater. You would use RR-6ND but check the specs for your individual load types. The Select system uses a main repeater combo bridge as well as aux repeaters. It is all programmed using the app on a mobile device. Select can handle 100 devices. Full Ra is programmed using the Ra programming software, and depending on the dealer has either a max of 100 or 200 devices.

[Bruce0]

In my opinion ... doing a Ra-Select system. ...You would use RR-6ND but check the specs for your individual load types.

Thank you for your reply AustinB, and I can see that that might work. But the part numbers I find for both RA2 Select and Radio RA2 are RRD-6ND, which say they work with MLV. However they specify remote (companion?) dimmers that are RD-RD (for both Radio RA2 and RA2 Select).

Page 7 of this ( http://www.lutron.com/TechnicalDocum...comparison.pdf ) document clarifies what works with what automation system (caseta, Ra2Select and RadioRA and HWQS), in that table the first two letters of the part number are not even listed (the RR or RRD is missing, the dimmer is just listed as the 6ND).

Is there any guide to understanding Lutron part numbers?

Do the first letters, before the dash, mean anything at all? Is an RR-6ND different from an RRD-6ND or for that matter a MRF2-6ND-120 (This last one would be nicest of all because it seems to be compatible with my existing installed MA-R companion remotes). As far as I can tell those three parts seem to be the same thing. But are they? Or do they have different protocols that they support?

Will my existing MA-R companion dimmers will work with the RR-6ND?

Forgive me, I know I must be asking stupid questions, because this Lutron system of part numbers cannot be as incomprehensible as it seems.

[Bruce0]

Also, I have reviewed the LIP (Lutron Integration Protocol) specification, and several of the white papers and NONE of them mention RA2 Select. I question whether RA2 Select is a protocol or separate system, it appears to be simply Radio RA2 without a repeater. Is correct? Or if I use RA2 Select will I really lose some capability (such as losing the ability to use Lutron Integration Protocol?).

[AustinB.]

RA2 Select is brand new and may not have all the papers yet posted for it. Select is a separate system but the main repeater and the bridge are one device. If you are describing integration with another system such as control 4 or savant, I am not aware if select can work with those systems. As far as MA-R working as companion to RRD-6ND I am not sure. Looking at the wiring it would appear as they will not. The MA-R does not have a neutral and is wired differently. The first numbers of the part number do in some way signify which product line/system they work with. MRF2 is wireless maestro but, will not work with any system whether its RA2 Select, RA2, Caseta, or HWQS. It lacks the components to work with the system and is only independent. There is no guide to my knowledge besides using the documentation to reference the part numbers.

[SDR-Mike]

Also, I have reviewed the LIP (Lutron Integration Protocol) specification, and several of the white papers and NONE of them mention RA2 Select. I question whether RA2 Select is a protocol or separate system, it appears to be simply Radio RA2 without a repeater. Is correct? Or if I use RA2 Select will I really lose some capability (such as losing the ability to use Lutron Integration Protocol?).

For integration purposes, look at what works with Caseta, and you should be good to go with RA2 Select.

[Bruce0]

AustinB. Thank you so much! I did not know RA2 Select was new. That explains a lot. Also thank you for explaining that the MRF2 is basically basically not integrated. It sounds like I can use RA2 Select, but I am going to call Lutron and work through the specifics on the repeaters. THanks again.

[randyc]

The MA-R is a companion dimmer and will work with any of the Maestro style dimmers (MA, MSC, MRF2, MSOP, etc.). There may be some limitation when using them with RR2/R2S but I haven't found it.

R2S does not support the same integration protocol as RR2. Both will support HomeKit (RR2 through connect bridge). R2S 3rd party integration might be a bit more tricky. If a system supports Caseta it should support R2S. You should check with them to be sure before investing.

The RR2 integration protocol is designed to work with advanced integration systems like Crestron and Savant. You can add a 2nd main repeater for double capacity. You can add 4 aux repeaters per main repeater for a much larger footprint. RR2 has additional components like actual keypads, wallbox modules, RF modules, Grafik T, Grafik Eye, sensors, car visor control, et. al.

[Bruce0]

So I did the online training, which let me get the software. So the question now is do I need to replace all the companion dimmers with RD-RD's. Lutron says "the Maestro remote dimmers are not formally tested and approved to work with the Radio RA dimmers, but they have had customers who have used them together without issue. It’s up to you whether you would like to keep your existing dimmers or change them to the RD-RD instead. The Maestro dimmers may work with the Radio RA dimmers, but note that the combination is not UL approved and would not be supported by Lutron if you encounter issues down the road."

However I am a bit confused as to how to wire the RRD-6ND dimmers with the MA-R dimmers (because the diagram only shows the new RD-RD companions in the circuit.

The RD-RD has 3 screws and a safety ground. The screws are Black, Brass and Blue.

The MA-R has 3 wires and a safety ground. The wires are Black, Red and Blue.

It turns out I have to move some of the companions (because with the Neutral wire dimmers, the actual dimmer must be at the load end, not the supply end, and that was not a restriction with MALV's and MA-R's.

In any case it didn't work, so I put in a couple of RD-RD's and it worked fine.

Randy if you have gotten the MA-R to work with a RRD-?ND dimmer please let me know how they are hooked up.

I hooked it up as if the Red wire was the brass screw, the blue wire was the blue screw, and the black wire was the black screw, and it didn't work. Specifically in a configuration with one remote and one dimmer I put the remote on the supply end of the circuit and on the MA-R I wired Blue wire to blue screw, black wire to supply, Red wire to black screw. Then on the RRD-?ND i did Brass screw to the load, and silver to neutral.

[randyc]

I have used the MA-R with RR2 dimmers with no issue. With all varieties of Maestro dimmers the black terminal is power in, the brass in power out to the next device or the load. The blue terminal is used for communication. I always use the red traveler for communication. I find it easier to trace that way.

Since you have a device with the color coding is going to be unique. Power will come in on the black wire of the MA-R. The red wire (not traveler) will connect to the black traveler. The blue wire will connect to the red traveler. At the other end, the black traveler will connect to the black screw. The red traveler will connect to the blue screw. The black wire going to the light will connect to the brass screw.