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Thread: Caseta Wireless Switch Bleeding Current

  1. #1
    Junior Member
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    Sep 2017
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    Caseta Wireless Switch Bleeding Current

    I have replaced almost every switch in my house with Caseta Wireless Dimmers and Switches, and most work totally fine. However, the under-cabinet lighting in my kitchen does not work properly. It consists of seven "WAC Lighting" dimmable LED units (LEDme® Light Bars) that are all controlled by a single switch. I had tried using a Caseta Wireless Dimmer but it did not work at all and WAC lighting claims that you can wire together at most 4 when using a dimmer. So I swapped out the Caseta Wireless Dimmer for a Caseta Wireless switch, PD-6ANS-WH.

    The switch works and is wired properly including neutral and ground. However, even when the Caseta switch is "off" it seems to be bleeding enough current to (very) dimly light up all 7 under cabinet units. I fail to understand what is going on here - I expected that a dimmer would be slightly more complex, and that even when on fully a dimmer is never 100% and when fully off it's not 0% but I expected a $55 on/off **switch** to act like an actual relay, where the circuit is disconnected fully when "OFF".

    Is this likely a faulty switch or a flaw in the design? Why is the Caseta switch bleeding/leaking current when it's off?

    Thanks,
    Jack

  2. #2
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2017
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    I can't answer the question on the switch but I do know The WAC LED strip lights require an ELV dimmer to function properly. There is one in the caseta lineup. Also what is the wattage of the tape lights in question? Some dimmers require a minimum load to function properly.

  3. #3
    Senior Member
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    Jun 2013
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    1,365
    WAC Lighting is notoriously difficult with the digital dimmers from Lutron- Maestro, Vierti, Ra2, HMQS, and now Caseta. Works fine on the "mechanical" Diva and such. You could try adding a LUT-MLC- it will make the tech guys cringe to add this to a neutral wire dimmer or switch. But it should solve the issue.
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