Caseta Pro dimming MLV driver => flicker ... what's neutral got to do with it?

[tbeaulieu]

Hello,


I've added quite a few Casetas to my home and have them all tied in with my Wink controller. Easy peasy.


I want to tie in cabinet lighting (strips of 3528) that will be include a number of zones. I'm also installing LV dimmers at each zone for fine tuning. I've installed a 150W MLV driver in the cellar and am running a series of home run lines to the various zones. The standard Casetta is not compatible with MLV, but the PRO version is, so I got it. What I didn't realize is that the neutral is required for MLV. My LED strips are flickering and I just noticed the fine print on the PRO, casually mentioning the neutral being required. Removing the Caseta eliminates the flicker.


Well, I've got two 14-2 cables running into this switch box. With the standard Caseta I run hot/black into the switch and then the neutral/white to the lights and back to the neutral bar. I have the whites marked black coming out of the switches. This seems to suggest to me that I should have run a 3-conductor, but I didn't and honestly I don't think I could at this point, since the wall has been buttoned up and brick veneer installed. Ugh. I might be able to "dig out" the box and go with old construction for the replacement, but it's not something I want to do, at this point.


A quote from another thread -> "The neutral wire on the 10NX will allow a lower minimum wattage and also eliminates most of the flickering."

I Guess I don't understand what this means. Can I tie the dimmer's neutral to ground? Am I dead in the water? Do I need to install a new switch box somewhere else so that I can run 3-conductor?

PS: Caseta isn't even in the list of approved dimmers for the MLV driver. Ugh. Nor is any dimmer that's on Wink's list. Ugh again.

https://www.magnitudeinc.com/service...tible-dimmers/


Thank you for any insight.

[R0CKnU]

Well, I've got two 14-2 cables running into this switch box. With the standard Caseta I run hot/black into the switch and then the neutral/white to the lights and back to the neutral bar. I have the whites marked black coming out of the switches. This seems to suggest to me that I should have run a 3-conductor...

If I'm reading this correctly, you may be OK. It sounds like you have both the line and the load running into the switch box. If so, all you need to do is tie the neutral from the PD-10NXD to the same pigtail that connects the line and load neutrals. Check out the wiring diagram on pg. 15 of the Caseta spec tech doc.

http://www.lutron.com/TechnicalDocum...369987_ENG.pdf

You're assuming that the purpose of the neutral is to interupt the neutral path (series) but that is not the case. Best of luck!