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Thread: Multiple Ceiling fans & RRD-2ANF

  1. #1
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    Multiple Ceiling fans & RRD-2ANF

    Using the RRD-2ANF I see that the load is 2 amps. I would assume that you could use as many ceiling fans as you want with the switch as long as the load is under 2 amps? Essentially I want to make sure that I do not need a control for each fan in a room, that I can use one switch for multiple fans. If not I guess I could put as many RRD-2ANF as needed in the wiring closet and put a single control in the room to handle them, but of course it would be less expensive to just have one control in the room to control all the fans.

    Essentially 2-85 watt fans (120 volts) should be 1.42 amps, well under the 2 AMP limit.

  2. #2
    The spec sheets say only one fan, that's all I've ever done, but I'd be curious to hear if anyone has tried to use it to control multiple fans...

    http://www.lutron.com/TechnicalDocum...9-225i_ENG.pdf

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by mike123abc View Post
    Essentially 2-85 watt fans (120 volts) should be 1.42 amps, well under the 2 AMP limit.
    I have heard this will work, just realize that it is outside what Lutron recommends. It's similar to running farther than the 30ft for Clear Connect. After you exceed spec- it's YOUR system, and Lutron can't be held responsible for any issues that arise from what I call "off-script" applications.
    Residential Lighting and Shading Specialist for CED Escondido

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    Quote Originally Posted by rapamatic View Post
    The spec sheets say only one fan, that's all I've ever done, but I'd be curious to hear if anyone has tried to use it to control multiple fans...

    http://www.lutron.com/TechnicalDocum...9-225i_ENG.pdf
    We did a retro fit installation where separating the fans would have been a nightmare. So we tried it. Its been working fine with 3 fans for at least 6 months. I believe the fans were 42" hunter originals, but I could be mistaken as they are 25' up in the air. We never needed to get to them so I can confirm.
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  5. #5
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    Well it is new construction so I will just spec 9 controls:

    1 center light dimmer
    1 accent spots dimmer
    2 fan controls
    1 shade control (at least can do 2 shades - blackout and roman on one switch).
    2 bedside reading light spot dimmer (one on each side of the bed)
    2 scene controls (one on each side of the bed)

    This master bedroom will be a fully loaded room.

    I am now thinking at door to hall putting central light, accent lights, and shade controls.
    On each side of bed reading light, scene buttons and fan control for the fan on that side of the room.

    Anyone have a configuration similar and have thoughts?

  6. #6
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    It at all possible do not hide the fan controls. Keep them easier accessible to the customer. When programming the keypads you pick the fan speed assigned to a button but the speed cannot be changed without the app. The raise lower buttons on the keypad would not change the speed (for me at least).
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    Scratch that! Just tried it and the raise lower does work from the keypad if the fan button toggle was the last press.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lukeetal View Post
    Scratch that! Just tried it and the raise lower does work from the keypad if the fan button toggle was the last press.
    It is possible to assign the raise/lower buttons to specific loads, but you lose the dimming on the other keypad buttons. This technique requires scene based cotrol for that particular keypad.
    Residential Lighting and Shading Specialist for CED Escondido

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  10. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by SanDiegoRep View Post
    It is possible to assign the raise/lower buttons to specific loads, but you lose the dimming on the other keypad buttons. This technique requires scene based cotrol for that particular keypad.
    I seem to recall something about 'last load' gets the dimming, or am I mis-remembering? Not that I'd want to use it for a fan though.

    With new construction you're ALWAYS better served having as fine-tuned a setup as possible. Especially in large room setups. Sure, the building plans might call for everything being on one load (like ceiling cans) but actual usage of the room might want something different. Wire, at this stage, is cheap compared to regret and drywall work later.

    Also note, Pico remotes on pedestal controls or even as 'fake' wall mounts work great for putting controls closer to 'real life' than wiring might allow. We've got a two-gang Claro plate up on the wall (with 3M Commandstrips) next to a bunkbed allowing for control of lighting and a fan. If/when the bed gets replaced/moved it's a simple matter of peeling the 3M strips off. Looks *exactly* like a normal switch plate.

  11. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by mike123abc View Post
    Well it is new construction so I will just spec 9 controls:

    1 center light dimmer
    1 accent spots dimmer
    2 fan controls
    1 shade control (at least can do 2 shades - blackout and roman on one switch).
    2 bedside reading light spot dimmer (one on each side of the bed)
    2 scene controls (one on each side of the bed)

    This master bedroom will be a fully loaded room.

    I am now thinking at door to hall putting central light, accent lights, and shade controls.
    On each side of bed reading light, scene buttons and fan control for the fan on that side of the room.

    Anyone have a configuration similar and have thoughts?
    I have a very similar setup, but only one fan. I went with a full size dimmer and an RD-RD aux switch for each reading light. Because fiddling with tiny buttons on a bedside switch is annoying. So each side has a dimmer, RD-RD and (non-hybrid) keypad. Actually, one side does have a hybrid, as it's controlling the load of an outside spotlight that the electrician erroneously wired there (linked to two RD-RD's downstairs near doors). Don't get me started on electricians...

    It could be done with a hybrid and an RD-RD if you wanted to reduce the number of in-wall devices. The RD-RD paddle on each side would be for that light, and then one of the hybrid buttons would be for the other. Remember, you don't have to control the load on a hybrid dimmer from itself. I'd be inclined to have the hybrid on the opposite side of the lighting load. As in, hybrid on the left for the right-side light and then use the RD-RD on the right to actually control the right-side light. This way you'd have a full-size paddle doing the control and would be able to use hybrid's buttons for other combinations. Which might include the opposite-side reading light (or not).

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