Troubleshooting a Pd 6ANS switch and pico for a staircase 3way light

[schultzpeg]

So after good success with several dimmers and pd6ans single pole switches, I wanted to keep,going and install this with a pico for the staircase leading to our second floor. This is a 16 year old house, and while the previous owner did some interesting things electrical wise, I think this original.

the first floor switch is a dead end, with just a ground, red/white/black wire. The other switch in the box is on another circuit so no neutral bundle. The black wire was carrying load so that was taped.

the second floor box is where things got weird. When I pulled the wiring out to check it, I saw two black wires twisted together. There is a 12-2 wire bundle coming ( I Think) from the light fixture which is directly overhead and a 12-3 traveller wire bundle (red/white/black) also in the box. When I got the multimeter out to see where the power was coming from, it was coming from the white line from the 12-2 bundle. None of the others registered even a flicker. The switch was wired up with the white ( from the 12-2) on the black screw and the white/red on the traveller screws.

so, are the bundled black wires really neutrals? Should I stop and find another solution? I don’t really want a dimmer here as I don’t want to accidentally dim the lights in a fairly dark staircase. But am open to suggestions.

i hope this makes sense. I am a hobbyist, but very careful with electricity. My smartwatch registered 31 flights of stairs the day I started this project. lol. On/off/on/ off….

[Brandon W.]

Hello schultzpeg and welcome to the forums,

That bundle of black wires will not be a neutral bundle. There should be a 12/2 white connecting to another 12/2 white in the back of the box. This will be the neutral connection. If there are no white neutral bundles in the back of the box at either side, we instead recommend utilizing a PD-5WS-DV as this does not require a neutral. The specification sheet on this control can be found here: Caséta Wireless In-Wall Switch SPEC (369831) (lutron.com)

[schultzpeg]

Thank you Brandon for your thorough reply. I ordered and received a PD-5WS-DV. After reviewing the instructions here is what I have.

switch 1. - White is marked hot ( the previous electrician marked it with permanent marker rather than tape). This is coming from the 2 wire bundle I assume is connected to the light.

I have wired the PD 5WS black wire to the white-marked-black.
I have capped the blue wire ( I have a pico remote for the 2nd location)
I have the green wire connected to ground

now the PD 5WS red wire….
The white wire coming from the 3 wire bundle is also marked hot ( white in the Romex and then black permanent marker rather than tape to the old switch).
When I connect the red PD 5WS wire to the red+ white-marked-black. These 2 are both from the 3 wire romex bundle.. ( with the remaining two black wires twisted together and capped. One is from the 2 wire and the other from the 3 wire romex ). The light comes on.but when trying to switch it off, it goes about 10% dimmer and then nothing happens. I can’t switch it on or off then.

Switch 2: there are only 3 wires and ground, although the load is on the white wire marked black there as well. I have twisted red, white-marked-black and black together and capped these together in that box.

what do I have wrong here?

[schultzpeg]

So would a LUT-MLC be appropriate?

[schultzpeg]

So the LUT-MLC did the trick but I had to install it in the light fixture. Thanks so much for your help. I learned a lot reading through this and other threads.

[Brandon W.]

Thanks for keeping us updated schultzpeg! That LUT-MLC helps the switch to power up and perform consistently when using LED or CFL bulbs. We are happy to hear that is it performing as it should now. Please let us know if you have any further troubles regarding this location. We hope you are enjoying your Caseta system!