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Thread: Use with fluorescent fixture/not using dimmer

  1. #1
    Junior Member
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    Use with fluorescent fixture/not using dimmer

    Can I use the PD-6WCL for a fluorescent fixture if I do not want to use the dimmer feature? I was sold the Caseta Wireless specifically for this use, but in reading the enclosed directions it does not indicate use with fluorescrent fixtures/bulbs. I am an elderly homeowner and do not want to pay for an electrician to come out if the unit should not be used for this purpose. Thank you.

  2. #2
    Senior Member
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    No. All dimmers have a minimum level of high-end trip. I.e. they take 10% off the top. If your fluorescent isn't dimmable it will do weird things that will make you say bad words.

    There is a Caseta switch PD-5ANS or PD-6ANS.
    Convergence Technologies Raleigh, North Carolina
    www.convergenceusa.com

  3. #3
    Lutron Technical Support
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    Jan 2022
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    Hello,

    Randyc is correct. The PD-6WCL is not rated, or designed, for fluorescent lights. As mentioned, if dimming is not required a Caseta on/off switch would be the best option. There are two types of Caseta switches: neutral-required and non-neutral switches. The PD-5ANS / PD-6ANS / DVRF-5NS all require a neutral connection. The PD-5WS-DV does not have a neutral but does require installation of the included capacitor for fluorescent, CFL, or LED lights to function properly.

  4. #4
    You cannot use a dimmer on a fluorescent fixture (i.e., with a ballast). You can use the PD-5WS-DV or the other "on/off" switches identified by Jonathan K. As noted, if you use the on/off that does not require a neutral wire (PD-5WS-DV), you will likely need to install the LUT-MLC resistor (typically provided with the switch, but if one is not included in the box, call Lutron and they will ship you one gratis). The PD-5WS-DV is hard to find and very expensive, but if you want to wirelessly control a fluorescent light fixture, and you don't have neutral wiring in your home, then it may be the only way to go for you.
    But here's an alternative suggestion: Convert your older fluorescent fixture to LED and then you can use the other less expensive Caseta dimmers (so long as the LED lights you install are dimmable). There are tons of videos on Youtube and elsewhere that demonstrate how in less than 15 minutes you can easily convert a fluorescent fixture to use LEDs (essentially, you just bypass the ballast). There are a lot of other very good reasons to do such a conversion: Fluorescents are becoming harder to find, and eventually every ballast dies, and they can be costly and time-consuming to replace, or require replacement of an entire fixture. And LED tube lights will literally outlive all of us (I just purchased 4 LED 4' tubes that are rated at 40,000 hours). Even if they only last half the rating, they will likely outlast me. And either way, if you stick with fluorescent and elect not to convert your fixture to use LED, and you want to use the PD-5WS-DV on-off switch (not dimmable), you're going to have to open up your fixture anyway to install the LUT-MLC resistor. My vote would be to convert the fixture, get the Caseta Diva dimmer, and buy some dimmable LED tube lights. IMHO, you'll be happier in the long run.

  5. #5
    Junior Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by ambientdiode View Post
    You cannot use a dimmer on a fluorescent fixture (i.e., with a ballast). You can use the PD-5WS-DV or the other "on/off" switches identified by Jonathan K. As noted, if you use the on/off that does not require a neutral wire (PD-5WS-DV), you will likely need to install the LUT-MLC resistor (typically provided with the switch, but if one is not included in the box, call Lutron and they will ship you one gratis). The PD-5WS-DV is hard to find and very expensive, but if you want to wirelessly control a fluorescent light fixture, and you don't have neutral wiring in your home, then it may be the only way to go for you.
    But here's an alternative suggestion: Convert your older fluorescent fixture to LED and then you can use the other less expensive Caseta dimmers (so long as the LED lights you install are dimmable). There are tons of videos on Youtube and elsewhere that demonstrate how in less than 15 minutes you can easily convert a fluorescent fixture to use LEDs (essentially, you just bypass the ballast). There are a lot of other very good reasons to do such a conversion: Fluorescents are becoming harder to find, and eventually every ballast dies, and they can be costly and time-consuming to replace, or require replacement of an entire fixture. And LED tube lights will literally outlive all of us (I just purchased 4 LED 4' tubes that are rated at 40,000 hours). Even if they only last half the rating, they will likely outlast me. And either way, if you stick with fluorescent and elect not to convert your fixture to use LED, and you want to use the PD-5WS-DV on-off switch (not dimmable), you're going to have to open up your fixture anyway to install the LUT-MLC resistor. My vote would be to convert the fixture, get the Caseta Diva dimmer, and buy some dimmable LED tube lights. IMHO, you'll be happier in the long run.

    I have a number of old fluorescent fixtures I plan to remove and replace with LED. Until I get to doing that, while I’m currently replacing various switches with Diva dimmers, can I go ahead and change the switches controlling the fluorescents? I know they won’t work as dimmers, but will this lead to unpleasant consequences like damage to the dimmers, or drawing excess current/overheating? Not interested in modifying the fluorescents or ballasts as these fixtures are going away soon. What happens if I put a Diva on an old school fluorescent and turn it on at 100%?

  6. #6
    Lutron Technical Support
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    Oct 2023
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    Hello dangarwood, welcome to the Forums. We do not recommend putting the fluorescent fixtures on a dimmer until they are changed over to dimmable LEDs; putting a dimmer on an unsupported load type or non-dimmable light can cause damage to both the dimmer and/or the fixture in the long run, even if kept at 100% brightness, due to the dimmer not outputting a true 120V consistently to the non-dimming fixture. We hope this helps!

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