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Thread: RA3 - Feedback and areas to improve

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by 416to305 View Post
    I found the activation process was weird as you have to use Lutron Designer, but then switch over to the app to actually activate them? Seemed clunky I thought.

    Also, you don't have to wait 10 minutes, in the RA3 training it says you can either wait 10 minutes, OR, power cycle the device and transfer immediately. That's what I do, just pull the FASS for a few secs, pop it back in and it works immediately.
    That's a helpful bit of information. My first transfer, the system pushed 26 out of 29 devices and stated the last three devices I had to wait 10 minutes after activation before doing a transfer.
    Still having to power cycle 29 or more devices seems unnecessary.

    I also, like others don't get the whole two step activation process. Designer software > App > Back to designer software.

  2. #12
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    Like SparkyCoog said... keep them coming. I've already learned so much through this thread and the input is valuable. I hope Lutron is paying attention.

    To touch base on the end user scene creation. I look at it from an upgrade position where an existing client may upgrade from RA2 select to RA3. I'm of the mindset that you always add features and functionality, not take them away when you upgrade to a more robust or powerful platform. For a client who upgrades from RA2 select to RA3, how do I explain that they can no longer create their own scenes and MUST purchase an keypad or hybrid keypad (Upon availability). Seems like a step back to me. And creating virtual home owner keypads is a work around, but still not ideal.

    The programming extraction is also important as whackit mentioned. We've done a number of take over jobs in the past and this would be critical.

    Also, should any end user want to add the RA3 system to their Apple Homekit account, we found the QR code on the back of the main processor. Had to get a ladder and remove the processor from the mount and snap a photo. Before processor mounting, I would snap a photo of the QR code before processor installation to avoid the hassle we went through.

    RA3 is still in it's infancy and I'm sure it will expand over time. However, my initial assessment is that RA2 is still more functionality and has more options for control vs RA3.

  3. #13
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    Just completed a small RA3 system - using all Clear Connect devices (shades, seetouch keypads, & 2 hybrids). Activation and programming wasn't an issue. However, we're finding response from keypad buttons presses to be unacceptably slow. Anyone else come across this?

  4. #14
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    I upgraded my RA2 processor in my small apartment/condo to RA3, and it went smoothly. Thought I'd share a few notes/surprises/missing features.

    Since I had started playing with the designer software before the upgrade path was available, I just re-built my system from scratch, which was fine since it was small. Once the processor came in, I let everything activate by serial number. Only hitch was I realized I had to reset the devices first before they would activate again, so I just plugged the RA2 processor back in and reset it, which reset all the devices. Obviously just letting the software upgrade your old database would have been a lot simpler.

    New things I like:
    - The PoE processor and form factor. You go from two devices (repeater + connect bridge) + wall warts down to one device (if you have a PoE switch you don't even need a wall wart). The new design is very clean and sightly enough it wouldn't be offensive if you had to mount it in a visible space. The one note I would add is if you use the shelf mount, it sticks out a bit more from the wall than the old main repeater.
    - The Lutron app. The end-user can have one app for all their Caseta, RA3, and HWQSX systems. And pro installer mode means we can dial in remotely any time to walk them through a feature. I also somewhat suspect going forward we'll see newer features and re-designs come to the Lutron app first, before Lutron Connect.
    - This is not mentioned anywhere, but like Homeworks you can now put toggle programming on a Pico button.
    - You can now program an RR-15APS to appear in the app as a fan or other non-lighting load. And those will properly register with HomeKit/Alexa/Google as a non-lighting load so they don't turn off when you ask to "turn off the lights"
    - There are now date-based timeclock events

    Some downsides, missing features:
    - Despite now using the same designer software as Homeworks, we don't anything new on the programming side (outside of the Pico toggle button mentioned above). In fact we lost the "path of light" mode, which admittedly was always a little bit awkward in RA2.
    - The arriving/leaving home geofencing feature appears to be missing.
    - A timeclock cannot currently enable/disable an occupancy sensor, but it sounds like from other posts that may be coming
    - Timeclock modes are gone, but there is the ability to create multiple "timeclocks" that can each be enabled/disabled from within the Lutron app. This is probably fine in most cases unless you really depended on being able to toggle the timeclock mode from a keypad button (vacation mode is separate and you can still create a vacation mode button)
    - When customizing scenes in the app (editing keypad button or timeclock schedule), the end-user can only select from lighting loads or shades. Fans and other types do not appear, you can only program those into scenes in the designer software.
    - In Lutron Connect, when you added a load device into your favorites you could then customize its icon (e.g., choose a lamp icon instead of lightbulb, and so on). This doesn't exist in the Lutron app. On the plus side, you can now add keypads into your favorite devices.
    - Yes telnet is gone. LEAP should be an improvement for mainstream integrations, but the integration partner I use still seems to be ironing out some bugs (I may have to upgrade to newer hardware on their side as the LEAP driver require more resources given the added encryption). Also, out here in Silicon Valley, I get asked about Home Assistant all the time. The open source community will reverse engineer it eventually, but if Lutron really cares about security, they should publish the protocol on their own terms rather than wait on hobbyists to find their own way in probably undermining the security in the process.

    Among things I haven't tired yet... any Sunnata devices. Lead times for anything in non-gloss white from my distributor are several weeks at least, so I should have more to share once those start to come in.

  5. #15
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    Just noticed that there is a manufacturing cut-off date for SeeTouch keypads which is 2011.

    Converting RA2 System to a RA3 System | Lutron

  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bill13 View Post
    Just noticed that there is a manufacturing cut-off date for SeeTouch keypads which is 2011.

    Converting RA2 System to a RA3 System | Lutron
    It looks like they fixed that with 21.8. I know the keypad I was using the other day was from that generation. I'll give them credit where due. I just wish they'd add support for Grafik-T and Grafik Eye devices.

    1. A bug was fixed where older RadioRA 2 keypads (manufactured in 2010 or earlier witha date code T48 or earlier) would be unable to control lights when used in a RadioRA 3system. If you experienced this issue, you can fix it by upgrading to Lutron Designer21.8, using Designer to upgrade your processor firmware, then performing a "force fulltransfer".

    2. A bug was fixed where Lutron Designer allowed you to exceed the max rating of theSunnata switches (link to RRST-8ANS spec, link to HRST-8ANS spec) by 0.5 ampswhen ganged with other devices..

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  8. #17
    Quote Originally Posted by SparkyCoog View Post
    It looks like they fixed that with 21.8. I know the keypad I was using the other day was from that generation. I'll give them credit where due. I just wish they'd add support for Grafik-T and Grafik Eye devices.

    1. A bug was fixed where older RadioRA 2 keypads (manufactured in 2010 or earlier witha date code T48 or earlier) would be unable to control lights when used in a RadioRA 3system. If you experienced this issue, you can fix it by upgrading to Lutron Designer21.8, using Designer to upgrade your processor firmware, then performing a "force fulltransfer".

    2. A bug was fixed where Lutron Designer allowed you to exceed the max rating of theSunnata switches (link to RRST-8ANS spec, link to HRST-8ANS spec) by 0.5 ampswhen ganged with other devices..
    I'm wondering if this was why one of my keypads didn't work with the initial convert/transfer. I did delete it from programming and readded it with success. So it could have just been a coincidence.

  9. #18
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    This is great insight, wish it was easier to find before my first RA3 install. The lack of real support docs for basic setup has to improve for sure. The scene setup process and trying it into Alexa is just poor, still trying to figure out Alexa!

    As for the designer software, why can't you just filter for only devices supported by Ra3? If someone can explain how that would be great, I'm assuming the funny symbol of an squiggly up arrow is only clue.

    One last question - anyone found a clean way to use an outlet (like CAR-15-GFST) tied into the Ra3 system? I have done several Insteon installs (company died April '22), and the list of control devices and ease was great. I now get to replace all those with Ra3 and features are just not as robust at this point.

  10. #19
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    Glad it was helpful. Since I got the post reminder, thought I'd add a few updates based on recent changes Lutron has made.

    Issues fixed in more recent software releases:
    - Occupancy sensors can now be enabled/disabled via a timeclock event.
    - I realized you actually can enable/disable each independent "timeclock" from a keypad button, so this is effectively the same as switching timeclock modes in RA2.
    - They added the Natural Light Optimization feature for wood blinds. Just experimenting with a fake set of blinds in the app (not activated to a real shade device), the feature seems well-designed and something many end users will find neat. The one missing part is it would be nice if NLO could be toggled by a keypad press so it could be easily toggled off and resumed in multi-use rooms e.g. bedrooms where sometimes extra privacy is desired.

    I also finally received a Sunnata dimmer (still waiting on some more + keypads in satin finish), and am pretty happy with the build quality. The light bar adjustment is very fluid and slick, but I have noticed visitors have a tendency to activate it unintentionally, e.g. if you touch near the top right edge of the switch the light will jump instantly to 100% instead of taking the normal fade time it would have if they had figured out to click the top of the rocker.

    Quote Originally Posted by AABCI-LLC View Post
    One last question - anyone found a clean way to use an outlet (like CAR-15-GFST) tied into the Ra3 system? I have done several Insteon installs (company died April '22), and the list of control devices and ease was great. I now get to replace all those with Ra3 and features are just not as robust at this point.
    Yeah, Lutron has never had a "smart outlet" product. I think the supported path here would be either to use the plug-in module (RR-3PD-1 or the equivalent non-dimming part), or install an additional Sunnata/Maestro switch wired to either one half or all of the receptacle. If you use a dimming switch with the outlet, note that most codes require a special "lamps only" receptacle (e.g. CAR-15-HFDU-WH) to prevent non-lamps from being plugged in to the dimmer. If only switching is desired, the LMJ-16R-DV-B softswitch module could also be hidden somewhere in line to the outlet.

  11. #20
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    I was asking the question of Tech support and they tell me that for the SeeTouch keypads (RRD-H6BRL) to work you need the RR-AUX-REP-WH so it can work with RA3. The issue is that they do not have anything like that combination dimmer/keypad available (promised it is coming), so this is only way to use a single location switch/gang box to accomplish objective.

    I have tried to read and understand the "support" sites and used email into tech support - answers are all over the map. Only real answer is to see who has figured it out via trial and error.

    If you do the math, that is over $600 of product, and all of it is functionally obsolete or close to it. I think I will suggest using the old fashion walk over to the switch for retro fit installations for now, or drop an Alexa device nearby.

    The joys of being on the bleeding edge of technology and having demanding clients.

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