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Thread: Wiring Temporary Construction Lighting

  1. #1

    Wiring Temporary Construction Lighting

    We are currently roughing in a homeworks system and the builder would like to have temporary lighting up throughout construction. We have done this before but im thinking it wasnt in the most efficient way. I am wondering other ways to go about this with out installing modules and programming.

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by ChandlerHart View Post
    We are currently roughing in a homeworks system and the builder would like to have temporary lighting up throughout construction. We have done this before but im thinking it wasnt in the most efficient way. I am wondering other ways to go about this with out installing modules and programming.
    With RPMs you can land the wires in the RPM panel and use the breakers to turn the lights on/off. You can also use the manual override on the module interface (requires RPMs to be installed). DIN modules have a manual override CCI.

    This is getting to be a routine request. If the electrical system is ready for temp lighting, the Lutron system should be as well. I typically only do 1 or 2 keypads and only give them an interior on/off and exterior on/off. Some are now asking for exterior timers to keep some of the lights on overnight.
    Convergence Technologies Raleigh, North Carolina
    www.convergenceusa.com

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by deepakwon View Post
    DIN modules have a manual override CCI.
    "Input is Normally Closed. If Contact Closure is opened, the unit will go to Emergency light levels or Manual Override light levels and will not respond to inputs from other devices (LQSE modules only)."
    Convergence Technologies Raleigh, North Carolina
    www.convergenceusa.com

  4. #4
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    Typically, the larger the construction site, the more temporary wiring. Temporary wiring often includes all the elements of permanent wiring systems such as the service, feeders, branch circuit wiring for power and lighting outlets.

  5. #5
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    I wouldn't install a dimmer, RPM, or DIN Module until rough-in is completely finished and the electrical is trimmed out. These are expensive units and it's easy for them to get damaged while the other trades are working or accidentally energizing something that's not ready to be energized yet. All it takes is for someone to short out a wire while installing a light fixture or someone hitting a temporary light with a ladder and poof, you blew out a module. Maybe the breaker will trip before it's damaged or maybe it won't. Or maybe the insulation guys spray foam above the panel and foam gets in and some of it gets on your modules. Or maybe you're not around and the job site is not secured well enough and someone comes in the middle of the night and steals all your modules.

    Back when I worked with Vantage panels for new construction, they had these jumper boards that would clamp down on the module ports and energize the zones without a module so that way I could choose what to turn on and just have them be controlled by the breaker until it was trim out time. Since Lutron doesn't make something like that, you can just make your own and just land a jumper wire from the hot to the switched hot...You don't need to turn everything on, just a general light in each area. Once the dirty part of the construction is done and the light fixtures are installed, you can put in your modules and just program an "House on" and and "all off" button by the door so the builder can just turn on the whole house while you work on adding detail to the programming.

    I should mention that I am electrician and not an AV guy so as an electrician who also does the lighting automation, I have a little bit of an advantage in having a lot more detail about what light fixtures go where, when they'll be installed, and working with live power so if you're not an electrician, you should work with the one who will do the work closely and just tell them which things to make hot. There are a lot of ways to do this but back when I did new construction, this was the way people liked it.

  6. #6
    Such a design, even a temporary one, will bring many problems. I tried to install light boxes. But it is too expensive. For greater stability, it is necessary to give the structure a trapezoidal shape (due to the different lengths of the upper and lower frontal crossbars), and also, at a height of more than 3 m, equip it with stops, which are attached to the posts with one end, and are stuck into the ground with the other. In this capacity, thick boards, beams, poles or metal pipes are used. The standard distance from the scaffolding to the building wall is 150–300 mm, and so that the structure does not collapse onto the facade https://petesuen.com/, the crossbeams are made with the appropriate release beyond the plane of the racks. Therefore, any structure will need the correct ratio.

  7. #7
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    There is a really easy solution to this. Terminal blocks. They used to be included with the panel for RPM systems. Now you have to provide your own or use the wego connectors for the SL/neutral wires but this allows you simple breaker control of all your installed lighting without the risk of damaging an expensive module (or theft of an installed module).

  8. #8
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    epayitonline

    My QSX 2 link is scheduled to ship on Friday (I'm almost giddy!)My predictions (based on nothing at all)... maybe more wishful thinking:QS isn't going anywhere, anytime soon.QSX will eventually be able to be added to QS systems (RPM) by upgrading the epayitonline the QSX processor.It doesn't make sense to do it any other way... but neither does having more than a dozen different lighting control systems that don't talk to each other, so who knows!?

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