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Thread: Caseta controlling 0-10 volt dimming light... possible workaround??

  1. #1
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    Caseta controlling 0-10 volt dimming light... possible workaround??

    I have been told there is no Caseta switch that can dim my $600 worth of lights I just bought specifically integrate with my new Caseta system. Booooo!

    Someone told me to buy another Lutron device that costs $163 that caseta could control, that would dim this device.... ($220ish to control and dim one light) Booooo!

    This light I have is just waaay to bright to ever be switched on at 100%. $163 per light plus a Caseta switch (if switched independently as I want) is just not happening.


    1. If the above is wrong, please correct me.

    2. Right now here is the least expensive workaround I can come up with, but I'm hoping some of you genius types on the interweb can help a brother out with a better solution, or tell me that this will or won't work:

    Plan: Wire the light to a DVSTV switch (never wired one of these up) which apparently works with my light to dim it. Hopefully set that lightswitch so it comes on at a preset dim %, and then leave it on... and then control the power to that light with a Caseta plug-in switch upstream. Will the DVSTV switch come back to it's last setting in the event of "power failure" IE: me cutting the power to it via the Caseta switch?

    I am a newbie, but if you were to ask me my opinion on Caseta so far, I'd say it is badass but the two major oversights so far is not being able to dim my LED lights after I bought dimmable LED lights and a dimmable Caseta switch, And also the fact that there is not a Caseta controlled in-wall dimmer that also has a motion sensor over-ride. BOOOOO! Yes, capital booo on that one, because walking into a room and having the lights turn on is automation 101.... Having scenes that operate only if someone is actually in the room to appreciate the majesty of automation is eco-friendly and quite frankly just a glaring hole in the design (ok, ok, there is prob some technical reason why this isn't possible, but I'm just sayin')

    If a scene turns on and there is nobody in the room to receive the photons, does the Diodes really Emit Light? Yes, the answer is YES. I've seen it happen myself. ;)

    The above is the Lutron version of Sports Center's segment entitled: "C'MON MAN!!!"

  2. #2
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    Currently, the only way to control 0-10V loads with Caseta requires you to have 2 devices:
    You would need to use the PD-10NXD dimmer, and you would need to wire it to the GRX-TVI interface.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Automate View Post
    And also the fact that there is not a Caseta controlled in-wall dimmer that also has a motion sensor over-ride.
    The best way to do that is to use dedicated motion sensor (like LRF2 series) since in-wall dimmer or switch most of the time is not located in the best possible place. So for best room coverage, standalone sensor is better.

    The only problem is, you would have to upgrade to RA2 to get support for motion sensors - Caseta does not support them.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by veeeh View Post
    The best way to do that is to use dedicated motion sensor (like LRF2 series) since in-wall dimmer or switch most of the time is not located in the best possible place. So for best room coverage, standalone sensor is better.

    The only problem is, you would have to upgrade to RA2 to get support for motion sensors - Caseta does not support them.
    Caseta dimmers/switches will actually support LRF2 sensors, but only in a standalone application. As soon as you add the paired dimmer/switch to the app, it will stop listening to the previously paired LRF2 sensor. I know this is not completely ideal, but we found there are certain areas of the home where users are willing to give up app based control in exchange for occupancy/vacancy sensing.

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    I have used rheostats to control the 0-10v line at the LED dimming driver to set a preset in a similar application. The construction team overlooked the 0-10v control wiring for step lights and the client was unhappy because the 100% level was far too bright.
    These 0-10v dimming drivers were 'current source' which means a simple rheostat allowed me to set a light level at the driver (turning the LED output to the lowest setting) and then we just setup the step lights' line voltage as switched outputs.
    I am pretty sure we used 10K pots and they were about $5 each.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zach R. View Post
    Caseta dimmers/switches will actually support LRF2 sensors, but only in a standalone application. As soon as you add the paired dimmer/switch to the app, it will stop listening to the previously paired LRF2 sensor. I know this is not completely ideal, but we found there are certain areas of the home where users are willing to give up app based control in exchange for occupancy/vacancy sensing.
    Wow! Did not know that. This is a game changer for me. Thanks Zack!! So I am using Phillips Hue bulbs on this circuit, so correct me if I am wrong here, I can use the LRF2 sensor to control the Caseta or Maestro Dimming switch (standalone) and the lights will turn on with motion, but the switch won't be paired with the Lutron Bridge. Since I can then still control the actual lightbulbs through Homekit for color, dimming etc. This solves my problem I think. Thanks for the workaround!

    I have heard that the Phillips color spot GU10 lights don't like to be on a dimmer, so next thing is to sort out how to have them come on at a preset dim level and use the Lutron dimmer in switch mode....


    I suppose that I could find a motion sensor is Homekit compatible, and then set up an IFTTT scenario so that I can have that switch paired up with the Lutron Bridge AND have a motion sensor that controls it even though it's not in standalone mode... Crazy? (I'm just getting started with this stuff so thanks for humoring me).

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by digit1 View Post
    I have used rheostats to control the 0-10v line at the LED dimming driver to set a preset in a similar application.
    I am pretty sure we used 10K pots and they were about $5 each.
    Digit!- I had the same thought the other day. People here in the forum were telling me I needed to spend like $250 to dim a 0-10 v LED light within Caseta, and I'm thinking to myself, a pot at Radio Shack would control this for $5. I guess you just need to either make the pot accessible if you want to adjust the dim level. Are you saying that you just broke out some of the 110v ahead of the LED driver, ran it through the pot, and then to the control circuit to the LED driver?

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Automate View Post
    I am using Phillips Hue bulbs on this circuit ... Caseta or Maestro Dimming switch ... I have heard that the Phillips color spot GU10 lights don't like to be on a dimmer, so next thing is to sort out how to have them come on at a preset dim level
    It isn't possible. Hue bulbs always turn on at soft white / full on after losing power. You can, of course, cobble up something to adjust them after they are on (and connected to ZigBee), but enjoying a 2-3 second flash of white every time you come in into the room would be something I could recommend only to an enemy.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by veeeh View Post
    It isn't possible. Hue bulbs always turn on at soft white / full on after losing power.
    Figures. Juuuust when you think you have it all figured out.... Alright, so If I'm going to use Phillips Hue bulbs, in my bathroom how best to integrate them? I really would like them to be motion activated and come on at a preset level. Thanks for telling me that feature about the Hue bulbs.

    How would I get a motion sensor that would feedback into the Homekit system to trigger a scene then? For instance, if motion is detected and it's between 7-9am, come on at full intensity with a cool light, if between 12-5am, turn on with a warm light, if after midnight, come on at 10% brightness, warm light. Any ideas?


    As for the closet, since I am using standard LED downlights, I am going to use the maestro MSCL-OP153 and be done with it.

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