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Thread: LED lights still glow when ELV+ dimmer is off

  1. #1
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    LED lights still glow when ELV+ dimmer is off

    I have a Lutron PD-5NE Caseta ELV+ Dimmer wired up to a chandelier with 15 dimmable G9 LED 2W bulbs, which I assume are wired in parallel. For reference, the chandelier is:

    Possini Euro Design, Ramona 32" Pendant Light: http://www.lampsplus.com/products/ra...gn__5w979.html
    And each bulb is: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N4BAV9S

    The chandelier came with non-dimmable bulbs, and I replaced them with dimmable ones.

    I then wired in the PD-5NE, which uses a NEUTRAL connection.
    When the switch is on, the dimmer works as expected... brighter at the top LED, and dimmer at the bottom. Works fine.
    When the switch is off (all the LEDs on the switch are glowing very slightly), the chandelier should be off completely. But it's not. I can see a faint glow on each bulb.
    When the FASS Front Accessible Service Switch is pulled out, the chandelier stops glowing.

    If I use a pencil-type power presence tester and touch it to the PD-5NE's black wire, it blinks and beeps, as expected, because it's the HOT.
    When I touch it to the PD-5NE's red wire (the LOAD wire), it blinks and beeps... but shouldn't. In fact, I tried this on another PD-5NE which is connected to some recessed ceiling mounted LED fixtures, and it indicates no power on that wire when the switch is off.
    Next, I used a volt meter, and measured about 73 volts across the red-to-white (load-to-neutral), when the switch is off. And, 73 volts across the red-to-green(ground), and 122 volts across black-to-white). The 73 volts is unexpected. Again, on the other switch/circuit, I read 0 volts under the same circumstances.

    I have replaced the PD-5NE, and it is still happening with the second one.
    The chandelier circuit shares a HOT and NEUTRAL with the other light circuits (the one that works as expected).

    I've asked the electrician to isolate the wiring from the circuit panel to the PD-5NE and to the chandelier... and it is still happening! So, assuming he didn't mess anything up when he isolated it, the circuit should look like this: (I think you'll have to click it to see it full size)



    So, what's going on here? Why would this glow? What can I do about it?
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails IMG_5264.png  

  2. #2
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    The digital type dimmer that is a Caseta (neutral and non-neutral) never truly turns off. There is a small amount of 120v amperage that remains to keep the circuitry in the dimmer running and the LED readout on. Equates to about 5 or so milli-amps. Capacitive loads (LEDs) will sometimes use this minimum amount of amperage to remain on if energized previously. Previously, Lutron discouraged the use of their shunt capacitor when dimming (LUT-MLC), but has recently changed course and has acknowledged the use of this to remove the dim glow your are seeing. It just bleeds off enough from the LED readout to allow the fixture to turn completely off. Sourcing can be done at an electrical distributor that is familiar with Lutron and has a good relationship with their rep. Reasonably affordable, list price I believe is about $6.00.
    Simple automation when DIY isn't working
    intuitivehomecontrols@gmail.com
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  3. #3
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    Do you know of any place in the internet where this is available? I found it in Amazon but at $26 a piece.

    Regards

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by LopeG View Post
    I found it in Amazon but at $26 a piece.
    Opportunists trying to rip off buyers.

  5. #5
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    Platt dot com has them for a reasonable price plus tax and shipping. Took me a while to find them for a fair price.

  6. #6
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    I attempted to use this (LUT-MLC) for the exact reason listed here and while it did allow the light to go off all the way, when it was on the light fixture would blink about once every 5-15 seconds (go off and then turn on again). I suppose it could be a light incompatibility, any ideas?

  7. #7
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    Well my two lut mlc's came and the one I've installed didn't pull enough of the juice to let the lights turn off entirely. It was suggested that I try to put on a second one on the single switch, but it's already tight in that 3 switch space and don't know if I will mess with it. Does anyone know if the ghosting takes a lot of life off the LED's?

  8. #8
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    I know this is an old thread by now but here is my experience.
    I had the exact same issue but I was instead using the cheaper 150W Caseta (PD-6WCL) which does NOT have a NEUTRAL wire. I figure it was because of a slight bleed of power still going to the lights.....mind you I am only running 2 16W Exterior LED bulbs.

    Anyways I went to my locale distributor and picked up the PD-5NE hoping that maybe the NEUTRAL wire and a bit of luck would help......and it in fact did. Once installed it worked perfectly with my 2 small lights. It's a bit overkill to have a 250W ~$90 switch on 2 tiny lights but I have a lot of Caseta in the house and wanted to stick with it.

    So I wired up the lights like this....there is another light in the middle that I added as well just so you knew the exact setup

    I didn't do anything special with wiring. The lights are wired up in parallel.

    Seems odd in your situation.

  9. #9
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    Hey SDR-Mike---please explain what " There is a small amount of 120v amperage that remains to keep the circuitry in the dimmer running and the LED readout on. What is LED readout?? thanx

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by juztfurfun View Post
    Hey SDR-Mike---please explain what " There is a small amount of 120v amperage that remains to keep the circuitry in the dimmer running and the LED readout on. What is LED readout?? thanx
    Dimmers and switches have a radio that needs to be powered even when the load is off. The indicator LEDs also remain powered (glow) when the load is off. Dimmers and switches "bleed" a small amount of power to keep the radio and indicator LEDs powered.

    Compatibility can also be a cause. Sometimes the LUT-MLC can help. Lutron has eased up a bit on not using it with dimmers.
    Convergence Technologies Raleigh, North Carolina
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