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Thread: PD-5ANS in 3-Way Installation

  1. #1
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2021

    PD-5ANS in 3-Way Installation

    Hi there - I've been having trouble adding a PD-5ANS to a 3-way switch. The wiring to the existing mechanical switches is as follows:Switch #1: One cable in the box with three wires: black, white, and red. The black wire is attached to the common screw; white and red go to the other ones.Switch #2: Two cables in the box. One cable has two wires (we'll call that cable "A"). The other has three wires (we'll call that cable "B"). The black wire from cable A is attached to the common screw. The white and red wires from cable B are attached to the other screws. The white wire from cable A and the black wire from cable B are connected with a wire nut.The lights turn on when both switches are flipped in the same direction. If they are flipped in opposite directions (one up, one down), the lights turn off.I followed the "Advanced Installation Guide" for installing the PD-5ANS with the Pico remote. I combined the three wires in switch #1 with a wire nut and installed the Pico remote with a mounting plate; simple enough. Then, I followed the directions for installing the PD-5ANS in switch #2. Black-A (which was attached to the common screw in the mechanical switch) went to the Lutron's red cable. White-B and red-B went to the Lutron's black wire. The Lutron's white wire was added to the existing white-A/black-B wire nut. Lutron's blue and green wires were capped (no ground available). In this configuration, the PD-5ANS was unresponsive with no green light.I then watched a Lutron 3-way installation video on Youtube. .In the comments, Lutron says: "The common wire on the line voltage side of the 3-way will be going to the black wire of the dimmer. The common wire on the load side of the 3-way will be going to the red wire of the dimmer." With that information, I tried again. This time, I connected black-A to Lutron black, white-B and red-B to Lutron red, and Lutron blue and Lutron green separately capped. Still nothing.I splayed all the wires in the two boxes and used a non-contact voltage detector. To my surprise, I found that white-A was the only live/hot wire. So, it seems like my lights and switches might be wired like this:With all that said, how should I install the PD-5ANS in this configuration?Thanks for any help you can provide.

  2. #2

    Mechanical switches wired incorrectly

    You're mechanical switches are wired incorrectly. I can't figure out how to attach my schematic I drew for you.
    Last edited by farmerandy7481; 01-01-2021 at 10:40 PM. Reason: Missing attachment.

  3. #3
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    A long time ago in a galaxy far, far away... we used to run power to the light fixture first, then drop a switch-leg down to the wallbox. We sent power down on the black, through the switch, and back up on the white. Radical electricians would send power down on the white and back up on the black. We quickly got tired of carrying ladders and taking the fixture down every time we wanted to troubleshoot or change something. This is the system you have.

    Since you are using a Pico at the other end, you can ignore the 3-conductor cable altogether. Attach the Caseta device to the conductors from the 2-wire cable.

    THE BAD NEWS! You do not have a neutral in that box so you can't use the 5ANS or 6ANS as they both require a neutral. The PD-5WS switch does not require a neutral.
    Convergence Technologies Raleigh, North Carolina

  4. #4
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2021
    Thanks for your replies. So, if I use a PD-5WS with a mounted Pico remote, should I just cap the three-wire cables at both ends and then connect the PD-5WS as if it were a single-pole device?

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