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Thread: Kitchen design advice needed (under cabinet and in-cabinet lighting)

  1. #1
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    Kitchen design advice needed (under cabinet and in-cabinet lighting)

    I read the thread on under cabinet lighting started back to 2016 and was hoping for an update perspective.

    I started renovation on my kitchen. I am sold on the Caseta Wireless for light switching, but need advice on under cabinet and in cabinet lighting.

    DETAILS
    Two pair of upper cabinets on either side of the range
    Each upper cabinet pair needs under cabinet lighting (bright for food prep during the evenings and ambiance lighting at night (i.e. dimmable))
    Each upper cabinet pair has glass in the top ⅓ of the doors for displaying dishes and stemware
    [Future Possibility - not in scope now] Add above cabinet lighting to splash the wall and ceiling

    PREFERENCES (note requirements)
    I prefer LED for their lifespan and ruggedness
    I have no preference pucks verses strip or rope
    RGB is "nice to have" not required
    Everything on a single Caseta dimmer switch (i.e. all on and off together)

    Any and all advice is greatly appreciated

  2. #2
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    This is a controls forum but I would go with LED tape. There are a lot of systems out there so you should be able to find one that meets your needs. There are a lot of questions that will need to be answered like... where is the power? Are the 2 cabinets connected (by a cabinet over the range hood)? Etc.
    Convergence Technologies Raleigh, North Carolina
    www.convergenceusa.com

  3. #3
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    QUOTE=randyc;38459]This is a controls forum but I would go with LED tape. There are a lot of systems out there so you should be able to find one that meets your needs. There are a lot of questions that will need to be answered like... where is the power? Are the 2 cabinets connected (by a cabinet over the range hood)? Etc.[/QUOTE]

    I have taken the room down to the drywall and will be running new wire between the existing switch location (it has power already) to the each cabinet pair below and into the upper cabinets.
    I will also run wire to outlets above the cabinets and simply cap those off for now.Future above cabinet lighting

    While I do not have cabinets above the store (new vent hood and open walls) I have run the wiring down behind the base cabinets allowing connectivity between the two sides and three locations on each side (under cabinet, in cabinet, and above cabinet).

    What I’m struggling to decide is what lighting fixtures I put in those places and if I need anything specific to drive them. I would prefer hardwired fixtures thereby avoiding the wall warts, but if that doesn’t work I’ll have the outlets as discreet as possible.

    [NOTE: This work is being done by a contractor and electrician with me supplying the requirements. So I might Be using inaccurate terms.]

  4. #4
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    I used Flexfire LEDs for a kitchen remodel project. They will also sell you an aluminum extrusion and cover that seriously improve the appearance. You will have to run the switch leg to a driver, and run low voltage wire to the LED strips. I used the High CRI series but they have updated their product line recently so you'll want to talk to one of the reps to get a recommendation.

    This project had a panel on the Bottom of the cabinets, which had a dado cut in them to accommodate a flanged extrusion with cover. They really turned out gorgeous.

    https://www.icloud.com/iclouddrive/0...YBuLQ#IMG_0064

    Also did over cabinet lighting. I recommend you use an aluminum extrusion whenever possible to reduce heat buildup and the extend the life of LEDs.
    Evan Kirkhart- Home Electronics Solutions
    Santa Barbara, CA
    evan@homeelectronics.solutions

  5. #5
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    Thank you for sharing. The photo is looks great. Exactly what I'm looking for.
    I have already initiated contact with Flexfire LED.

    You obviously went with white light. Any thoughts Pros or Cons to color?
    I am leaning heavily towards white, but now is the time if there is a compelling argument for color.

    Thank you

  6. #6
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    I would strongly advise against color. One of the key principles of interior design is to keep permanent finishes neutral, and to have brightly colored accents on easy to change parts, like decor and pillows etc. I have seen a lot of brightly colored mosaic tile that looks really dated now. I would recommend a 3000K white (maybe 2700). <br><br>
    Evan Kirkhart- Home Electronics Solutions
    Santa Barbara, CA
    evan@homeelectronics.solutions

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by evankirkhart View Post
    I would strongly advise against color. One of the key principles of interior design is to keep permanent finishes neutral, and to have brightly colored accents on easy to change parts, like decor and pillows etc. I have seen a lot of brightly colored mosaic tile that looks really dated now. I would recommend a 3000K white (maybe 2700).
    This makes lots of sense. I purchased FlexfireLEDs ClickBright™ Light Bars 5000K bright white with a Zurik® EMLV Electronic Dimmable LED Driver 24V 96W. If 5000K is to harsh for our room I'll replace with 3000K. Installation will occur in about 2 weeks a which time I'll return and share my experience.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by David R View Post
    This makes lots of sense. I purchased FlexfireLEDs ClickBright™ Light Bars 5000K bright white with a Zurik® EMLV Electronic Dimmable LED Driver 24V 96W. If 5000K is to harsh for our room I'll replace with 3000K. Installation will occur in about 2 weeks a which time I'll return and share my experience.
    My contractor took a break over the holidays so I just completed installation of the Light Bars yesterday. They are controlled by a Lutron Caseta dimmer switch.

    Four things I wanted to share:
    1. I like the 5000K, but it has only been one day plus my wife hasn't seem them so jury's out of light temperature
    2. Three of my cabinets were less than 24 inches requiring me to cut the ClickBright Light Bars. It was REALLY EASY to do. I took the measurement, disassembled the Bars (basically remove small screws from either end), slid out the LED substrate, cut the LED light substrate to length a pair of sharp wirecutters (or tin snips would work), used a fine tooth hack saw to cut the aluminum housing, and reassembled. Make sure to cut off the end without the clip on wiring connector.
    3. The hardest part of the job was mounting the metal mounting clips. Tiny little screws so pilot holes are required.
    4. I mounted the light as far forward (into the room NOT against the wall) as possible. This puts more light on the counter tops plus it keeps the lights out of the eyes of people sitting at the island across from the cabinets. If I mounted them against the wall they would be directly visible and the harsh light would be clearly visible.

    I highly recommend the FlexFireLEDs ClickBright Light Bars.

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