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Thread: One side of 3 way failed after light change

  1. #1
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    Question One side of 3 way failed after light change

    Hi. Thanks you to anyone who reads this and can help. For about 6 years, we have had a successful 3 way Lutron dimmer switch set up for our kitchen light. Just the one switch with one rocker to dim and brighten on each side of the 3 way. Last night, we switched the light that these switches control, and upon testing, all appeared ok. This morning, one of the 3 way switches will turn the light on, but will not dim or brighten, and will not turn the light off. The other side of the 3 way (which I call the master because it has the LEDs on the left side) works normally as it has before. I tried to reset both switches but was unsuccessful. What happened to the other side of the 3 way switch and how can I fix this? This was not a new switch install but a new light into an existing switch set up. Thank you in advance for any help you can provide.

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by mthowell View Post
    Hi. Thanks you to anyone who reads this and can help. For about 6 years, we have had a successful 3 way Lutron dimmer switch set up for our kitchen light. Just the one switch with one rocker to dim and brighten on each side of the 3 way. Last night, we switched the light that these switches control, and upon testing, all appeared ok. This morning, one of the 3 way switches will turn the light on, but will not dim or brighten, and will not turn the light off. The other side of the 3 way (which I call the master because it has the LEDs on the left side) works normally as it has before. I tried to reset both switches but was unsuccessful. What happened to the other side of the 3 way switch and how can I fix this? This was not a new switch install but a new light into an existing switch set up. Thank you in advance for any help you can provide.
    What is the model number of the dimmer and companion? Incandescent was more forgiving than LED is. Make sure the blue terminal on the dimmers are connected and power comes in on the black and goes out to the next device/light on the brass.
    LED, Incorporated
    Raleigh, NC 27614

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    Quote Originally Posted by randyc View Post
    What is the model number of the dimmer and companion? Incandescent was more forgiving than LED is. Make sure the blue terminal on the dimmers are connected and power comes in on the black and goes out to the next device/light on the brass.
    Hi. Thank you for replying randyc. The ‘main dimmer’ is model number MAW-603 and the other dimmer switch is MAW-R. I can look into each switch for the blue terminal - but I didn’t change the switches when I redid the light and things were working before - but is that the next step? To open up the switch and try to see if those are all still wired correctly even though nothing changed except the light fixture? Again, thank you for the reply.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by mthowell View Post
    Hi. Thank you for replying randyc. The ‘main dimmer’ is model number MAW-603 and the other dimmer switch is MAW-R. I can look into each switch for the blue terminal - but I didn’t change the switches when I redid the light and things were working before - but is that the next step? To open up the switch and try to see if those are all still wired correctly even though nothing changed except the light fixture? Again, thank you for the reply.
    You may find that 2 or 3 LEDs is enough. You can test by putting 1 or 2 of the old bulbs back in and see if the dimmer responds correctly.
    The blue terminal/wire is how the dimmer and companion communicate. It is critical that they are connected together. The original wiring diagram shows (between the dimmer and companion) blue-blue, brass-brass, power on one black, the load on the other black. They still use this diagram for non-neutral dimmers. For neutral dimmers and system dimmers (like RA2), they use the method I described. Blue-blue, power in on black, out to next device/load on brass.

    Incandescent lighting was much more forgiving. If LEDs are not wired perfect they will do weird things.
    LED, Incorporated
    Raleigh, NC 27614

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by randyc View Post
    You may find that 2 or 3 LEDs is enough. You can test by putting 1 or 2 of the old bulbs back in and see if the dimmer responds correctly. The blue terminal/wire is how the dimmer and companion communicate. It is critical that they are connected together. The original wiring diagram shows (between the dimmer and companion) blue-blue, brass-brass, power on one black, the load on the other black. They still use this diagram for non-neutral dimmers. For neutral dimmers and system dimmers (like RA2), they use the method I described. Blue-blue, power in on black, out to next device/load on brass. Incandescent lighting was much more forgiving. If LEDs are not wired perfect they will do weird things.
    Thanks again for the additional information. I will give it a shot with regular bulbs and see if that solves the issues. I am almost certain that she am wired correctly. Thanks again.

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