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Thread: PD6-WCL LEDs flickering

  1. #1
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    PD6-WCL LEDs flickering

    I recently installed a Caseta system in my home, and am mostly loving it, but I have one major issue. Some of the lights are working great, but some flicker no matter which bulb is installed. I have tried 3 different LEDs, all of which are listed as best dimming bulbs on the compatibility list. It's not a constant flicker. It will flicker for a while, and then stop for a while, and then start flickering again. They even flicker at full brightness. I started with the GE Reveal bulbs, model number 44943. I have about 2 dozen of these around the house. They worked fine for about a month, and then started flickering. At first it was just a few seconds here and there, but now it's almost constant. What's even better is that I have the 100w version of these and the 60w BR version, neither of which are listed on the compatibility chart, and these are working perfectly. No flickering at all. I don't remember which bulbs were the middle set, but the current ones I'm testing are Philips 556868 (60w) and 556860 (40w). The 40 watt versions are working perfectly, but after about 3 days, the 60w ones have already started flickering. I can't for the life of me figure out what is going on. All LEDs that I've tried have been listed as best dimming bulbs on Lutron's own compatibility list, but almost all are functioning unacceptably poorly. I've even had bulbs that aren't on dimmer switches start flickering just because they are on the same circuit as a dimmer. My house is wired very strangely, with all hots and neutrals being bonded with wire nuts in every gang box. I've never seen anything like it, and I'm wondering if this may have something to do with it. Although that wouldn't explain why some lights are working fine and others aren't. Any help would be greatly appreciated, as I've gone through every single idea I can think of. I'm about ready to pull these switches out of the wall and go back to dumb switches, because this is just causing me headaches (figuratively and literally). I just wish this had started before the return window for all the new equipment was past. *Sorry for the block of text. The website is removing all formatting that I put in.

  2. #2
    Senior Member
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    Jun 2013
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    1,328
    The PD6-WCL is the non neutral dimmer. This flickering is common when these dimmers are used. A neutral wire dimmer would solve the issue. Unfortunately, that would require another purchase of what sounds like quite a few dimmers. I would try buying a few LUT-MLC devices. These are Minimum Load Capacitors that ship with the non neutral Caseta switch. Lutron relented a few years ago and said they were okay on dimmers. This could help, and is significantly cheaper than replacing all the dimmers.
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  3. #3
    Senior Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by vockleya View Post
    I recently installed a Caseta system in my home, and am mostly loving it, but I have one major issue. Some of the lights are working great, but some flicker no matter which bulb is installed. I have tried 3 different LEDs, all of which are listed as best dimming bulbs on the compatibility list. It's not a constant flicker. It will flicker for a while, and then stop for a while, and then start flickering again. They even flicker at full brightness. I started with the GE Reveal bulbs, model number 44943. I have about 2 dozen of these around the house. They worked fine for about a month, and then started flickering. At first it was just a few seconds here and there, but now it's almost constant. What's even better is that I have the 100w version of these and the 60w BR version, neither of which are listed on the compatibility chart, and these are working perfectly. No flickering at all. I don't remember which bulbs were the middle set, but the current ones I'm testing are Philips 556868 (60w) and 556860 (40w). The 40 watt versions are working perfectly, but after about 3 days, the 60w ones have already started flickering. I can't for the life of me figure out what is going on. All LEDs that I've tried have been listed as best dimming bulbs on Lutron's own compatibility list, but almost all are functioning unacceptably poorly. I've even had bulbs that aren't on dimmer switches start flickering just because they are on the same circuit as a dimmer. My house is wired very strangely, with all hots and neutrals being bonded with wire nuts in every gang box. I've never seen anything like it, and I'm wondering if this may have something to do with it. Although that wouldn't explain why some lights are working fine and others aren't. Any help would be greatly appreciated, as I've gone through every single idea I can think of. I'm about ready to pull these switches out of the wall and go back to dumb switches, because this is just causing me headaches (figuratively and literally). I just wish this had started before the return window for all the new equipment was past. *Sorry for the block of text. The website is removing all formatting that I put in.
    There was a time when all the neutrals were tied together. This is the worst case scenario for LEDs. If there is any noise on the neutral, instead of being directed back towards the service, it gets distributed throughout the house. LEDs are extremely adept at picking up this noise.

    There are no standards for LEDs. A bulb Lutron tests today may have different electronics than the one you buy in the store tomorrow. Manufacturers also vary the electronics between similar bulbs. A 10w model may have different electronics than the same bulb in 12w.

    If your device has a neutral, make sure it is connected.
    LED, Incorporated
    Raleigh, NC 27614

  4. #4
    Junior Member
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    May 2020
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    2
    Well that's frustrating. I didn't realize the neutral vs non-neutral versions could make such a difference. I guess I'll have to pick up a few and test them out to see if that fixes my problems. Since it's not all the lights flickering, I'll just start with the worst offenders. If i had room in the gang boxes, I'd try out the capacitors, but, unfortunately, that's really not an option. Thanks for the information.

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