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Thread: Problems installing new Dimmer Switch

  1. #1
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    Question Problems installing new Dimmer Switch

    I am attempting to replace a Plum wireless dimmer lightpad with a new PD-6WCL. When I installed the Plum dimmer (a long time ago and with help), I tied together the wires at the 2nd switch location to remove it from the circuit. With the Plum lightpad (btw - company no longer in business), I made the following wire connections (pulled from the install manual): Connect your new Plum Lightpad using the attached wire nuts as follows: A. Connect the BLACK wire from the Lightpad to the “HOT” wire with a yellow wire nut. B. Connect the RED wire from the Lightpad to the “LOAD” wire with a yellow wire nut. C. Connect the GREEN wire from the Lightpad to the “GROUND” wire with a yellow wire nut. D. Connect the WHITE wire from the Lightpad to the “NEUTRAL” wires with a red wire nutSo - in removing the Plum and installing the PD-6WCL, I assumed that I only needed to connect the black "HOT" & red "LOAD" each to a black wire on the PD-6WCL, with the ground to the green wire and then I would be good to go. As the lutron does not include a white, I would not tie anything into the neutral. However - when I reapplied power, the switch did nothing nor turn on the lights as I expected. A friend tried to help and mentione that I should connect one of the black wires to the neutral, with the black&red cable from the box to the the othe black wire from the PD-6WCL. In this configuration, the lights turned on, but could not be turned off through the lutron switch. Think that he was just guessing. Am I missing something? I then attempted to call in for support with Lutron, but had to reassembly things back to the original configuration as I ran out of time to test things out. Currently the plum lightpad is installed (per above A-D wiring) and functioning properly. Also - with the 2nd switch bypassed when the plum was installed many years ago (and has not been touched), its my assumption that it tied together properly. Appreciate any thoughts/recommendations.Rgds,-Jimbtw - my electrical skills are minimal, but willing to learn!

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by JamesN View Post
    I am attempting to replace a Plum wireless dimmer lightpad with a new PD-6WCL. When I installed the Plum dimmer (a long time ago and with help), I tied together the wires at the 2nd switch location to remove it from the circuit. With the Plum lightpad (btw - company no longer in business), I made the following wire connections (pulled from the install manual): Connect your new Plum Lightpad using the attached wire nuts as follows: A. Connect the BLACK wire from the Lightpad to the “HOT” wire with a yellow wire nut. B. Connect the RED wire from the Lightpad to the “LOAD” wire with a yellow wire nut. C. Connect the GREEN wire from the Lightpad to the “GROUND” wire with a yellow wire nut. D. Connect the WHITE wire from the Lightpad to the “NEUTRAL” wires with a red wire nut So - in removing the Plum and installing the PD-6WCL, I assumed that I only needed to connect the black "HOT" & red "LOAD" each to a black wire on the PD-6WCL, with the ground to the green wire and then I would be good to go. As the lutron does not include a white, I would not tie anything into the neutral. However - when I reapplied power, the switch did nothing nor turn on the lights as I expected. A friend tried to help and mentione that I should connect one of the black wires to the neutral, with the black&red cable from the box to the the othe black wire from the PD-6WCL. In this configuration, the lights turned on, but could not be turned off through the lutron switch. Think that he was just guessing. Am I missing something? I then attempted to call in for support with Lutron, but had to reassembly things back to the original configuration as I ran out of time to test things out. Currently the plum lightpad is installed (per above A-D wiring) and functioning properly. Also - with the 2nd switch bypassed when the plum was installed many years ago (and has not been touched), its my assumption that it tied together properly. Appreciate any thoughts/recommendations.Rgds,-Jimbtw - my electrical skills are minimal, but willing to learn!
    DO NOT attach anything to the white wire!

    At the end where you removed the switch, tie the 2 blacks and the red together. At the end where the dimmer is, tie the black and red from the same cable together and connect to one of the blacks on the Caseta. Connect the single black wire (from cable with black/white wire) to the remaining black wire on the Caseta.
    LED, Incorporated
    Raleigh, NC 27614

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by randyc View Post
    DO NOT attach anything to the white wire!At the end where you removed the switch, tie the 2 blacks and the red together. At the end where the dimmer is, tie the black and red from the same cable together and connect to one of the blacks on the Caseta. Connect the single black wire (from cable with black/white wire) to the remaining black wire on the Caseta.
    Thank you very much for your response. Unfortunately, I don't have that number of black wires from your steps (apologize if I missing something). From the box, I have a single black, a single red and single green - ignoring the white. In this case, I can't tie anything together, but only the black and red wires to the caseta. Is it that simple? Thanks!

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by JamesN View Post
    Thank you very much for your response. Unfortunately, I don't have that number of black wires from your steps (apologize if I missing something). From the box, I have a single black, a single red and single green - ignoring the white. In this case, I can't tie anything together, but only the black and red wires to the caseta. Is it that simple? Thanks!
    When lights are controlled from 2 locations it is called a 3-way circuit. 3-way switches are basically A/B switches. Power comes in at one end, connects to traveler A or B. At the other end, power comes in on traveler A or B and goes up to the light (switch leg). In some cases, both the power and switch leg are in the same box. In that case the electrician will relay either the switch leg OR the power to the 2nd location using one of the conductors of the 3-wire cable. Having only black, white and red indicates you have this application. For the previous dimmer to work it would need power and the switch leg. It is possible the white wire is power or the switch leg.

    To determine which is power, use a voltage stick or electrical meter. Connect the remaining wires one at a time to see which is the switch leg. Connect those wires to the Caseta and cap off the 3rd wire.
    LED, Incorporated
    Raleigh, NC 27614

  5. #5
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    Success!

    Quote Originally Posted by randyc View Post
    When lights are controlled from 2 locations it is called a 3-way circuit. 3-way switches are basically A/B switches. Power comes in at one end, connects to traveler A or B. At the other end, power comes in on traveler A or B and goes up to the light (switch leg). In some cases, both the power and switch leg are in the same box. In that case the electrician will relay either the switch leg OR the power to the 2nd location using one of the conductors of the 3-wire cable. Having only black, white and red indicates you have this application. For the previous dimmer to work it would need power and the switch leg. It is possible the white wire is power or the switch leg. To determine which is power, use a voltage stick or electrical meter. Connect the remaining wires one at a time to see which is the switch leg. Connect those wires to the Caseta and cap off the 3rd wire.
    Good Afternoon - wanted to finally close this thread and advise the resolution. Testing everything out and could not figure out the issue. Finally got an electrican in and he could not find a problem. Issue was the switch was bad - just got a replacement and functioning without issues.Thank you fory your help and feedback!Rgds,-Jim

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by JamesN View Post
    Good Afternoon - wanted to finally close this thread and advise the resolution. Testing everything out and could not figure out the issue. Finally got an electrican in and he could not find a problem. Issue was the switch was bad - just got a replacement and functioning without issues.Thank you fory your help and feedback!Rgds,-Jim
    Thanks for the update. I recently added (2) fan switches and (4) dimmer switches. All but (1) dimmer worked. If i didnt have another dimmer switch to try at the non working location i would be going bonkers. It's weird that these brand new switches are somewhat hit or miss.

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