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Thread: Caseta dimmer intall problem

  1. #11
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Jun 2018
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    Tried all four combinations

    I can’t get any of these combinations to work:

    Dimmer top wire wired to red tagged wire
    Dimmer bottom wire to black and white wires
    2nd switch black and white and red capped

    Dimmer bottom wire wired to red tagged wire
    Dimmer top wire to black and white wires
    2nd switch black and white and red capped

    Dimmer top wire wired to red tagged wire
    Dimmer bottom wire to black and white wires
    2nd switch black and white capped
    2nd switch red capped

    Dimmer bottom wire wired to red tagged wire
    Dimmer top wire to black and white wires
    2nd switch black and white capped
    2nd switch red capped

    All four of those combinations don’t work.

    This sucks. What else should I try?

  2. #12
    I had a very similar behavior to the one described here: replaced a three-way, the lights turned on (at sort of a dim level) but didn't respond to the switch. Tried a bunch of the advice in this thread without luck. I knew the switch was getting power because the LEDs lit up for a reset (tap on three times holding for five seconds on the third tap, then tap three more times once the lights are flashing).

    Ultimately: I tried swapping the bulbs: five 4W LED Candelabras SEEMED like they'd be enough draw to work, and I'd had that working elsewhere in the house, but for whatever reason they weren't enough on this fixture. Replaced with five 6W LED bulbs and everything worked fine. Just replacing ONE bulb was actually enough to get the switch responding, but it still had issues until they were all swapped out (the lights were fine at low dim but flashed at higher ones).

    Anyway, FYI in case that helps anyone else.

  3. #13
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    Mar 2019
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    I had the same situation while installing the caseta dimmer and 3-way pico remote per the instructions. My work around was I installed a standard 3-way lutron flapper switch where the pico remote would go. Created the loop it needed to work correctly. Now everything is fine.

  4. #14
    I had the exact same symptoms. No LEDs on the Caseta dimmer switch, switch buttons wouldn't work. LED lights on the switch had quick flashes at a rate of about 2/sec.
    Turns out the circuit already had an undervoltage issue. It was fluctuating between 50-90 volts. Never noticed anything because it's usually just LED lights on the circuit. Nothing to do with the switch or how it was wired.
    So make sure the switch is actually getting 120v.

  5. #15
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    Join Date
    Nov 2019
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    1

    Issue

    The instructions if followed exactly are to replace the switch that connects to the load and use the remote where the power is supplied (hot) the issues describe sound as though the switch is being installed at the power (hot) side of the threeway rather than the load (light fixture) side

  6. #16
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Jun 2020
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    2
    I had the same issue where the switch in a 3-way configuration wouldn't light-up. The lights would stay about have brightness but the switch wouldn't function. I did a reset to make sure the switch had power as instructed above in this thread (tap "ON" three times, holding for five seconds on the third tap, then tap three more times once the lights are flashing). Power to switch confirmed.The switch is wired into the box where the hot lead is, not the load (light). Travelers are tied together and wired to the switch. After a lot of troubleshooting, turned out to be much more basic. The light bulbs I was using weren't dimmable. For whatever reason this was enough to keep the switch for powering-up. Replaced with dimmable LED bulbs and problem solved.

  7. #17
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    Jan 2022
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    Quote Originally Posted by jsnola View Post
    The instructions if followed exactly are to replace the switch that connects to the load and use the remote where the power is supplied (hot) the issues describe sound as though the switch is being installed at the power (hot) side of the threeway rather than the load (light fixture) side
    I believe you are correct. I just ran into this issue myself yesterday. FWIW, at the base of my stairs was a "dumb" dimmer with dedicated on/off switch, and at the top of my stairs (closest to the light fixture) was a simple "dumb" on/off switch.

    I followed the Lutron video but installed the new Caseta dimmer first (the video has you installing the Pico remote first). For no particular reason, I opted to install the Caseta dimmer at the base of my stairs. After installing *just* the dimmer, I turned the power back on and the dimmer was working as it should. FWIW, turning the old on/off switch at the top of my stairs caused the light to turn off but then quickly back on again (regardless of position of the switch).

    I then shut off power again and installed the Pico switch, capping the ground by itself, but capping all three other wires (including a common wire) together. FWIW, I believe there were also neutral wires in the back of the box, already capped off.

    Then, when turning power back on again, the Caseta dimmer was non-functional, and it's little LED light was not on, suggesting that it was no longer getting power (or not getting it the way it wanted). After shutting off power and doing some Googling and finding this thread, I tried a couple of the other suggested fixes (e.g., capping the common wire independent of the other two wires in the Pico box), but to no avail. Prior to Googling, I did wonder myself whether it mattered which box had the Pico remote and which had the Caseta dimmer. So after the suggested fixes didn't work, I gave that a shot, installing the Pico remote at the base of my stairs, and the Caseta dimmer at the top of the stairs. Everything worked as it should, including with all three wires in the Pico box capped off together.

    As an aside, as a DIY electrician I highly recommend the Klein circuit breaker finder and accessory kit (which comes with a light socket adapter and banana clips). The main breaker panel and two subpanels in our new-to-us house was labeled poorly, inaccurately, and in some cases, not at all. I also recommend getting a decent multimeter and learning the basics of testing for specific wire types. I've never been particularly handy, but as a tech guy, *basic* electrical work (replacing outlets, switches, and light fixtures) has been one of the things I feel semi-competent to try myself. I'd still like to learn more about (and memorize) the different terminologies (hot, line, load, common, neutral) and be able to do more of this stuff myself.

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