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Bought a new Big *** (that's the brand name) and ordered it with 0-10 v control and no light on it. The mounting location is programmed in HWQS for a fan but this is a new home and first install of a fan. The mounting location has a typical romex 3 wire (black, white and ground) . Fan has black white and ground but also has separate low voltage wires for + and - motor and optional light. I was going to install myself but not sure what to do with low voltage wires. Thx
With 10v you need 2 controls. 1 to turn the load on/off and a 2nd to control the fan speed. The easiest way to do this in HQS is with the LMJ-5T-DV. It has the on/off and 10v in a single device. BAF fans can get really BIG. Check the ratings before you commit. The LMJ-5T will switch up to 5 amps and provide up to 60ma of 10v control. The LMJ is a Clear Connect (RF) devices. If the LMJ won't work you will need one of the panel based solutions. You would need to get a low voltage cable from the fan back to the panel.
Don't forget... 10v controls are polarity sensitive.
I have 3 of the same Big *** fans, with the 0-10v kits.I am using two of them with DIN rail 0-10v module with HWQS, and one with the LMK-5T-DV as suggested by randyc.I second his recommendation if you only have 1 fan and have clear connect (RF) support on your HWQS processors. It is super easy and means you don't have to run 2 wires for 0-10v back to your panel location.That being said, my experience with the fans is that you should NOT switch power to them. Instead, connect power to them and leave them powered 24/7 and just use 0-10v control for speed. Reason being is if you switch power to them, when you first switch them "on" it takes a while for the fan to respond to the 0-10v signal and start up. If you leave them powered 24/7, when you turn speed off with the 0-10v side, the fan will completely power down / stop.Some 0-10v devices act this way (e.g., they consider ~0 - ~1v or so "off" and you can leave them powered all the time) and other devices (I have some industrial Cree LED lights in the garage that support 0-10v dimming, however 0v on that device just tells it to dim to its lowest possible level which is ~40% or so, which means you DO have to switch the line power to the device off)Nice thing with the LMJ module is it can support doing both. If you don't want it to switch the load off as I recommend for this particular device, just cap the red "load" wire and pigtail your live on the fan with live on the LMJ module and your "line" (hot) in to the junction box. You can always change to run the device through the red "load" wire if for whatever reason that works better.As randyc also noted, BAFs can get really big, although if you are using their 0-10v control option I'm guessing you have a Haiku model, none of which pull anywhere near the 5amp limit if you ever do decide to power the fan on and off with the LMJ (although again, I suggest you don't).One other thing - although the LMJ devices support both sink and source 0-10v applications, I found the Big *** Fans 0-10v module in particular was unreliable in the default mode, so I switched the DIP switch to to alternate version (I forget what is default now) and its worked 100% reliably ever since.