Lutron LED not turning off and the bizarre solution

This is for anyone else experiencing this.... I have a Lutron switch and I recent retrofitted low wattage LED can lights. I knew there was a chance the older Lutron switch would feed too much voltage and the light may stay on when the switch is off. Which they did.So I bought a brand new Lutron switch that was LED compatible and in the wattage range of my new LED can lights. This still did not completely turn off the lights.After going to the site, I found out I have to use specific LED brands; which are less efficient than the ones I bought. I will throw out all my Lutron switches in the house if I have to buy specific LEDS, I do not put up with lazy engineering. Not wanting to throw them out, I started my journey to find a solution.Difference Lutron switches... didnt work, returned them all.PCS 10K Load Resistor to test if that worked... NopeLutron Load resistor test... NopeOne thing I noticed... when the switch was unscrewed from the electrical box, the LEDs would shut off completely. In every case of the Lutron switches I tried(DVWCL-153PH-WH, SCL-153PH-WH, MACL-153MLH-WH) Similarly when the LEDs are not in the can, but hanging from their wires, they will shut off completely. My theory... The lutron switch is bleeding power through its frame and onto the electrical box. Which is then carried through the ground to the lights. To test this I bought nylon screws and screwed the switch into the box with those. BINGO. Lights now go completely off.I am highly disturbed that power is bleeding from the switch frame into the ground. BUT, for now, the nylon screws are working.SOLUTION: Crown Bolt #6-32 1" nylon machine screws

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Originally Posted by SRobbins

This is for anyone else experiencing this.... I have a Lutron switch and I recent retrofitted low wattage LED can lights. I knew there was a chance the older Lutron switch would feed too much voltage and the light may stay on when the switch is off. Which they did.So I bought a brand new Lutron switch that was LED compatible and in the wattage range of my new LED can lights. This still did not completely turn off the lights.After going to the site, I found out I have to use specific LED brands; which are less efficient than the ones I bought. I will throw out all my Lutron switches in the house if I have to buy specific LEDS, I do not put up with lazy engineering. Not wanting to throw them out, I started my journey to find a solution.Difference Lutron switches... didnt work, returned them all.PCS 10K Load Resistor to test if that worked... NopeLutron Load resistor test... NopeOne thing I noticed... when the switch was unscrewed from the electrical box, the LEDs would shut off completely. In every case of the Lutron switches I tried(DVWCL-153PH-WH, SCL-153PH-WH, MACL-153MLH-WH) Similarly when the LEDs are not in the can, but hanging from their wires, they will shut off completely. My theory... The lutron switch is bleeding power through its frame and onto the electrical box. Which is then carried through the ground to the lights. To test this I bought nylon screws and screwed the switch into the box with those. BINGO. Lights now go completely off.I am highly disturbed that power is bleeding from the switch frame into the ground. BUT, for now, the nylon screws are working.SOLUTION: Crown Bolt #6-32 1" nylon machine screws

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You DO NOT have to buy specific LED brands. Some manufacturers submit bulbs/fixtures to Lutron for Testing. That is the list you saw on the website. There are plenty of other acceptable combinations, they just haven't been tested by Lutron.

There is no standard for LEDs. Every manufacturer has their own design for the LED and the driver. Some manufactures will have one control for their 40w bulb and a different control for their 60w bulb. Manufacturers change their designs without notice.

Lutron doesn't bleed current to ground. Some devices do bleed current to neutral to power the electronics. If you are getting current on the ground you should have your system checked out by a licensed electrician. You may have a poorly grounded system or someone may have used the ground connection as a neutral or vice-versa. This could affect the performance of any electronic device.

I don't know about the reply, but if it's a ground wire issue then what about disconnecting the ground from the switch? Is it safe if the circuit is wired through an AFCI breaker (Arc Fault Circuite Interruptor)?Or for that matter, the ground wire at the offending lamp?

I am having this problem, but with the plug and play dimmer PJ2-3BRL. Any suggestions. I have four of them and they all do the same thing. All are connected to strip LED's. All the features work, except the off switch, which just dims down to a very low level.