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Hi all,
Starting a project to install kitchen backsplash and wanted to install under-cabinet lighting before that happens so I can open the walls if I need to.
Has anyone installed a lighting package that worked with the Caseta dimmers? Doesn't appear that any LED strips are on the compatibility list so I'm wondering if anyone has any experience with a particular setup having worked for you.
Thanks in advance!
Hi-
I don't know if you're still looking for input, but we have florescent lights under our kitchen cabinets being controlled by a PD-5S-DV-XX switch (not a dimmer).
I can't speak for LED strips, but with regards to LED bulbs in general they're hit or miss with Caseta dimmers. I had to go through six types of bulbs before I found one that didn't hum and had minimal flickering. So be prepared to do some testing!
rsumma729-
Have you decided on a fixture vs. LED tape light? This would help. Cooper lighting makes the HU10 series LED undercabinet lighting, very smooth when viewed in polished granite. The PD-5NE-xx should run them just fine. Otherwise, the PD-5NE-xx or the PD-10NXD-xx for a dimmable driver running LED tape should work. I would stay away from the non-neutral dimmers and switches when dealing with LED.
I used the standard Caseta dimmer with my halogen lights.
I've wasted SO MUCH TIME trying to get my cabinet lighting to work correctly. I've spent time on the phone with Lutron. I've wasted TENS of hours trying to find a known compatible product set. I've wasted money on drivers that flicker with the caseta. This is so frustrating. Why is this so hard?
I installed strip lighting from WebTop, thinking that all I had to do was find a driver that one of the caseta products could work with. I wasted $100 on an MLV driver that I was told would work with the PRO. It does not. The lights flicker when dimmed.
The product selector tool is worthless to me. I'm not looking to control LED bulbs with integrated drivers. I want to know which DRIVER _ANY_ of the the casetas is compatible with. The web tool doesn't seem to list any driver manufacturers. My assumption is that I just need compatibility between the caseta and the driver and that the LED strips are out of the Lutron equation because the caseta isn't working the LEDs, but rather the driver. Every driver I discover talks about working well with a "standard TRIAC dimmer".
I did a lot of research before my kitchen remodel last year. I settled on pairing a Lutron Hi-Lume A-Series LTE 2-wire LED driver with the Caseta In-Wall Dimmer PRO (PD-10NXD). They work perfectly with my Diode LED tape lighting (https://www.diodeled.com). Smooth dimming to about 5% and no flicker. Make sure you have large enough gauge wire for the run from the driver to the tape, otherwise there might be enough voltage drop to be detrimental.Quote:
Originally Posted by tbeaulieu
See page 1 of these product specs http://www.lutron.com/TechnicalDocum...369919_WEB.pdf and page 32 of these http://www.lutron.com/TechnicalDocum...369543_ENG.pdf . They state clearly the compatibility between the dimmer and driver. But, it's essential to have neutral wiring for the dimmer to work with the driver. My kitchen was gutted with new wiring installed, so I was able to get neutral wiring to all of my switch boxes.
Wow. I wish I had known this before I installed my strips. I didn't even realize that Lutron had drivers. Sigh. I'll read through this stuff. Thank you very much.
Having a neutral wire available is key. The Pro Dimmer may "work" without a neutral wire, but you may get flickering.Quote:
Originally Posted by tbeaulieu
Lutron dimmers that have a neutral wire will require the neutral wire to work.Quote:
Originally Posted by vqvqv
The spec sheet for the PD-10NXD says that it is neutral-optional:Quote:
Originally Posted by SanDiegoRep
- Neutral-optional dimmer is ideal for retrofitapplications when used in two-wire mode, andprovides better performance with LEDs when neutralis connected.
vqvqv- I stand corrected! I cut my teeth on RA2, where the neutral wire was required unless it was the original hybrid. Thanks for the heads up.
I am looking for the same solution. Installing undercounter light strips and control them with Lutron Caseta.
Looks like the Lumaris by Lutron would work perfectly. http://www.lutron.com/en-US/Products.../Overview.aspx
Connection it to their recommended drivers and then to a in-wall Lutron Caseta dimmer.
Hopefully they are easily available and at a decent price. Cannot find info online??
Lumaris is a Lutron fixture. I can tell you they are awesome, and have a price to match. They should be purchased through an electrical wholesale distributor or lighting showroom. At their price, get it right the first time.
In general there is a principal: Dim the driver and let the load take care of itself. That said, testing is the key.
An issue with LED strip lighting is that the drivers are usually ELV. But lots of strips use a 24vdc transformer as a 'driver'. So if you find such a product you should be able to dim it with MLV dimmer. We (lighting designers) like Hafele LED http://tinyurl.com/zpw3x54 and their housing has a cover that prevents 'dotting' reflections in gloss countertops. You can drive them with 24vdc MLV transformers, which they used to provide but just switched to dimming electronic, which we have on order but it has not arrived for testing yet.
I've been dealing with flicker and low end trim on undercounter LED tape light using a PRO dimmer. Just received a new ELV dimmer and hopefully that'll solve it. Fingers crossed!
Got it. Thanks for sharing.
Hi all --It has been 2-3 years since this topic came up regarding under cabinet and cabinet lighting, and wanted to revisit now that I am tasked with a similar project. Any results or conclusions of hardware setups that have good outcomes for a Caseta system? My current situation:I currently have my house running on a Lutron Caseta Smart Bridge Pro and would like to be able to incorporate the lighting in and underneath my cabinets into the system. I have a wire running for lighting underneath the cabinets (potentially looking at a transformer and LED tape lighting) and another wire running for a single light in the top of the cabinet with glass (potentially a LED recessed hockey puck light). Both wires are running to the same switch box that has a neutral, common, ground etc. Being able to dim the lights would be nice, but isn't a deal-breaker. All I am really concern with is buying hardware and lighting that I would be able to incorporate into my Caseta home system to turn on / off. Anyone that could provide any guidance or advice would be most appreciated. Thanks,Michael
Bump. HELP
Giacino - I am looking at the same project you did. How did yours turn out? Any suggestion on what to buy for under-cabinet lighting that works with the Caseta system? Thanks
I realize this is an older thread, but maybe this will help someone out. I recently upgraded my under cabinet lighting from old fluorescent tubes to the GE enbrighten LED fixtures from Home Depot. It's the dimmable fixtures with selectable warmth (daylight/bright/soft white). Sometime thereafter I decided to upgrade some of my switches and went with the Caseta line. I encountered flickering on the GE LED fixtures whether at dimmed or full brightness settings. I upgraded that switch to the ELV PD-5NE model, but still had some flickering. It is wired with the neutral. To resolve, I changed the phase as instructed here, to forward phase setting:https://www.casetawireless.com/docum...ange-phase.pdfHope this helps someone out.