Difference between Dimmer PD-6CL and PRO PD10NXD

Hello,This is a pre-purchase question, so I'm new to Caseta, but not to residential wiring. I have a few locations that have 3-way dimmers with mechanical switches at the opposite end, and I'd like to replace the dimmer with a smart dimmer, but leave the original mechanical switch at the other end. My reasons, besides cost and device count, is that I have multi-gang switches installed at those locations, and I'd prefer to leave them intact.In the Advanced Installation Guide, all the references for use with mechanical switches reference the PRO dimmer, not the PD-6 dimmer. Is it required that I use only the PRO with a mechanical switch?As a related second question, is it possible to use a Caseta dimmer (PRO or not) in a 4-way circuit, as long as the Caseta is located at one end of the run? (In other words, I'm not trying to swap out an existing 4-way switch.) tia

After posting, I reexamined the advanced instructions. Apparently the PRO has extra terminals (wires) to the circuitry. I assume that's the difference.

The PRO dimmer has a higher maximum wattage and has the neutral connection. If it doesn't break the bank- always use the PRO with a neutral wire in your box. Your LEDs and LED performance will thank you.

The Caseta Pro dimmer PD-10NXD is the only Caseta Dimmer that can be wired to an existing thee way mechanical switch. It can be used in a 4-way application however, you would need to use Pico remotes at the other two ends which at that point you might as well use the PD-6WCL.

As the other posters state, you do need the PRO dimmer to do a true 3-way mechanical switch setup. It’s worth it in my opinion because you never have to worry about Pico remote batteries for the rest of your life.

Also, the last poster indicated its not possible to do a mechanical 4-way setup (3 switches or more) with the PRO dimmer. It actually is possible, I’ve successfully wired this setup and it works great. However Lutron doesn’t publish the wiring solution for this, probably because it can get tricky depending on how your boxes and circuits are wired and a mistake could possibly lead to a code violation.

Whatever the case may be, there is a well written solution posted by a guy named Bill at this link, and I also left a comment to his post indicating how I did it with some precautions and additional thoughts.

If you attempt this, please do this at your own risk because I don’t think Lutron would support this due to the potential scenario of having a shared neutral. If done carefully and correctly however, I believe it’s electrically sound and meets all code. Keep in mind, I am not an electrician, just an engineer that likes to figure out things.

https://www.quora.com/Can-Lutron-Cas...db&srid=upyAjE

Also, for what it’s worth, the wiring was all there for me in the last box going to the load, and it took me 5 minutes to do this, maybe less. It would have taken longer to do the mechanical 3-way install Lutron documents, because of the yellow jumper you need to add in the other box. And the pico installs too would have also taken longer with having to mount them. I opened one box, a few wire nuts and I was done. Hope this helps.