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Moved a PD-6ANS from one room to another. Same LEDs in both rooms. Old room worked fine. New room the lights turn almost all the way off but there's still a hint of light coming from them. I know on the dimmers you can adjust the low end trim to fix this, but on this on/off switch is there any way to fix this?
Thanks!
Get a LUT-MLC (Minimum Load Capacitor) and wire it in addition to the loads.
http://www.lutron.com/TechnicalDocum...94_LUT-MLC.pdf
The link shows that this is used for switches without a neutral? My neutral wire is hooked up. SO do I not use the neutral wire in my junction box then?Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian W.
And 2 questions...
1. Why would it work on the exact same set of lights in the next room over without needing this?
2. Why is this MLC ALWAYS the answer? If so many people have issues that this solves, why is this not built in or come with a switch. Now Lutron switches cost $60-$100 if you factor in buying this with every switch purchase.
I'm not trying to be rude/mean, I'm just honestly asking.
Still use the neutral on the PD-6ANS. Just use this in addition to the switch.
1. With unknown or untested LEDs, it could be multiple factors. I've had many cases where it's been: "it works fine with 3 of these LEDs, but it's not working correctly with 6 of the same LEDs (or vice versa)".
2. It's our best guess at it working. With the huge variety of LEDs being manufactured nowadays, we don't have the manpower to test them all. The PD-6ANS switch always works fine with incandescent or halogen bulbs. With the way digital dimmers/switches work, there can still be a very small amount of voltage on the output of the switch, even when the switch is off, to keep the microchip running. Incandescent or halogen bulbs aren't affected by this small voltage, but some LEDs are sensitive enough to pick up on this voltage and stay lit at a very dim level. The LUT-MLC helps with this small voltage.
The MLC isn't always the answer. It is the miracle device that does fix a lot of issues though. Lutron does include the MLC with a couple of models. I'm sure there is a detailed (i.e. boring) explanation of why some models and not others. I'm sure is evaluating incorporating the MLC into the dimmer design. They also have to determine where adding the MLC might have a negative effect.
The other issue I have seen is from a shared neutral. We used to see this a lot with CFLs and other fluorescents. It is why a dimmer sometimes works in one room and not in the next. The MLC won't fix a shared neutral.
So can you dumb down the instructions for me and show/tell me exactly how to wire it in with a neutral switch?Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian W.
Thanks for your help with this
bump.........Quote:
Originally Posted by NathanJax
The MLC wires in parallel to the load. Connect one lead to the dimmer/switch output and the other to the neutral.
http://www.lutron.com/TechnicalDocum...ary/041294.pdf
I have a chandelier with 3 Philips Warm Glow LEDs, which should be compatible. I am also having the problem with dim illuminatin when the PD-6ANS is "off". When it is "off" I am measuring about 23VAC between the load and neutral. That is a lot of voltage for it being "off". Is my unit defective? And, if I were to add a LUT-MLC, and that fixed the problem, how much power leakage would I experience while it was "off"?Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian W.
thanks.