Caseta switches in t12 ballasts

We tried to install the caseta switch into a commercial building we moved in to, the switch didn’t work. We tried the dimmer switch and it did, which lies are t12 fluorescent - so doesn’t make sense.

We also tried a Kasa tp link switch next neuter worked.


So the lights were wired with two light switches originally but one does nothing - however, when taken apart, one has the neutral wire which then runs to the either. It also has a ground. Then each light switch has one of the others (one red, other has the back), it seems likely they didn’t have enough connectors so they are working off each other somehow.
The Amps and wattts should be fine - they are 4ft t12 ballasts I believe - tho I can try or confirm if absolutely necessary, just wondering if anyone has figured out how to work them with fluorescent ballasts yet - haha.

What are the model numbers of the Caseta devices you are trying to use and the model number of the T12 ballast you're attempting to use? Also, do you have a link to the spec sheet for this "Kasa TP link switch next neuter"?That last paragraph seems to indicate some kind of wiring issue since two light switches are being used for this ballast, normally you'd just have a single switch to control the lights unless it was stepped dimming.

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Originally Posted by Adam K.

What are the model numbers of the Caseta devices you are trying to use and the model number of the T12 ballast you're attempting to use? Also, do you have a link to the spec sheet for this "Kasa TP link switch next neuter"?That last paragraph seems to indicate some kind of wiring issue since two light switches are being used for this ballast, normally you'd just have a single switch to control the lights unless it was stepped dimming.

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Sorry, that was supposed to say neither worked nor neuter.
The Kasa tp link hs200 is what we tried.

I believe the Lutron is the ans5 (or close or that), I can check when I get back in to the building today in about an hour or so - the ballasts I have no idea but I could open up the fixture again- they’re prob pretty old, but the light switch only has 3 spots for the wires to connect - neutral and red and black, so I believe that’s why they had another light switch? It has the neutral wire connected to both and a red on one the black on the other, so im not entirely sure why it’s like that. But we tried a single switch too and it didn’t have a neutral wire, so I assume that’s why it didn’t work. The cadets dimmer switch works tho which is weird

Because two light switches are being used to control this ballast, it appears to be a wiring issue. Normally, unless the lights are stepped dimming, you'd just have a single switch to control the lights.drift boss

hi I also have same problem. I replaced two new hi-lume 3d ballast (model number:h3dt528cu210). the lights always on and can't control by wall station( keypad).
also this system use Energi savr node 0-10v/softswitch control panel. is the ballast need to setup , address or program? pls who know how to fix this problem.

Hi Jerry. It sounds like your H3D ballasts are controlled via EcoSystem. The new ballasts need to be addressed into the system. Typically, when replacing only a single ballast at a time, this addressing is done automatically by the system. Do you have access to the system on the Energi Savr app on an iPhone, iPad, or iPod? The addressing is done through there. Please follow the steps on page 74 of the programming guide to replace ballasts. https://assets.lutron.com/a/documents/040384.pdf