Installing RRD dimmers and switches in retrofit projects

The Caseta and Diva dimmers come pre-wired, making their installation in retrofit projects a breeze. Why RA2 (RRD-x) dimmers and switches come with the screws like any other ordinary dimmer? Installation of RA2 dimmers is time consuming and when you have a 3+ gang to install, none of them will ever be perfectly flush with the Claro Design faceplate. Here is why: most RA2 dimmers require a neutral, so on the back side of the dimmer you have three 14AWG wires screwed into one side of the dimmer. When you screw the dimmer to the wallbox, there is excessive pressure on that side of the dimmer. Then, imagine when you have a 3 or even a 5-gang installation with 3-way application: the amount of 14AWG wires in the wallbox is such that the dimmer will never be perfectly flush with the Claro faceplate. Reason is that you have three 14AWG wires exercising pressure on only one side of the dimmer, which causes it to angle on the horizontal plan. I had a 5-gang retrofit to install and it was a complete nightmare, not to mention none of the dimmers ended up completely aligned or flush with the faceplate.

Original Maestro and Ra dimmers were significantly deeper and had the tails. Actually made the install harder with all the extra wire and wire nuts.


As far as the Claro wallpates- the backplate style should make the install more clean. Leave the mounting screws loose for the dimmer, then install the backplate. Dimmers should line up perfectly and then tighten the mounting screws to the box to make the backplate flush. I have terribly old drywall in my place and nothing sat flush until I used the Claro plates.

That's exactly how we install the dimmers; however, when it's time to tighten the mounting screws, the dimmers start tilting vertically, because the metal ears are flexible. Since the wires are screwed on only one side of the dimmer (assuming it's not a 3-way application), you have two or three 14/16 AWG wires exercising pressure on only one side of the dimmers, which causes the ensemble to tilt.

Well, I'm not a pro or anything but I did the entire retrofit in my house. What I did to help with this was basically before I connected any wire, I gave them a bit of an 'S' bend, sort of down and back up or whatever. This seems to help prevent them from exerting any real pressure on the switch itself.