PD-6ANS and fluorescent

Instructions say this switch works with fluorescent fixtures, but I've wired it per instructions and light does not come on. This is a shop-light type fixture that plugs into an outlet (i.e. not hard-wired directly from a junction box). If I turn the switch on, unplug the fixture and then plug it back in, the light comes on (and switch can then turn it off). But with the fixture already plugged in, turning the switch on does not turn the light on. If I plug in a regular light (incandescent), the switch works fine -- turns light on and off.Is this a ballast issue, or something else I'm missing? I believe the fixture has an electronic ballast.thanks

Make sure the neutral is connected to the 6ANS. You can also try adding the LUT-MLC minimum load capacitor.

Rapid Start (magnetic) ballasts don't like cold temps. Most are rated for 50-degree minimum. Magnetic ballast (Rapid Start and Instant Start) can have compatibility issues with electronic switches like the 6ANS.

Thanks for the suggestions, Randy. Neutral is connected, and this isn't in a cold environment. And everything I've read on the MLC says it's for when the lights don't shut off completely, which is definitely not the problem I'm having. At any rate, I gave up on fluorescent and just went out and bought a new LED shop light -- and am having exactly the same results: the 6ANS, by itself, will not turn the lights on, but if the switch is already "on," unplugging the fixture and plugging it back in does turn them on, as does using the fixture's pull-chain (which yes, I've left in the "on" position when testing the switch). Interestingly, I accidentally discovered that the FASS tab on the switch --- out and in -- also turns them on, if the switch is already "on," so why does that work when the switch, itself, does not? Could the problem somehow be the other wires in the two boxes (since each end of this 3-way shares a box with another, different 3-way set)? For example, the "tagged" (different screw) wire connected to the red 6ANS wire is also wirenutted with another wire in the junction box; nothing else in the box is connected to that wire - it just goes out into the wall. And then there's this: I wrote yesterday that my trouble light, with an incandescent bulb, works fine when plugged into the outlets controlled by the 6ANS. I've now found that with BOTH the new LED fixture AND the incandescent light plugged in simultaneously to the duplex outlet, the 6ANS no longer turns the incandescent on: only way to get it on is to have the 6ANS switch already on and then cycle the trouble light's button, or unplug it and plug it back in, or cycle the FASS tab, just as was the case with the LED by itself. So somehow, having the LED fixture connected to the 6ANS prevents the it from operating a normal incandescent light, too. Do I need to consider the switch, itself, being bad? Should I pull it out and find a (non-3-way) switch-controlled outlet somewhere else to wire it into instead and see if it works in that simpler configuration?

The FASS is a mechanical air-gap switch to provide positive off for electronic dimmers and switches. It is a safety feature (required by UL) to ensure the device isn't turned on remotely when service is being performed. By cycling the FASS you are essentially rebooting the device.

It is possible you are getting some neutral interference from the other switch in the box. You could try separating the neutrals if they are not already.

To use a mechanical switch with the 6ANS you have to rewire the switch. You are using it like a contact closure. If the 6ANS sees a change in voltage on the blue terminal, it will toggle the load. The link to the Caseta advanced instructions is below:

http://www.lutron.com/TechnicalDocum...structions.pdf

First, my apologies: I'm new to the site and cannot figure out (nor find any online help) on how to do any kind of formatting, even simply including returns to separate what you've written from my replies. > It is possible you are getting some neutral interference from the other switch in the box. You could try separating the neutrals if they are not already. How would I go about doing that? There are currently 3 whites coming into the box (where the 6ANS is; 2 whites in the box at the other end, connected to each other but nothing else), all connected to each other but with NO connection between them and the other switch in the box (which was one side of a different 3-way, but now all wires that were going to that switch are connected together as the switch has been replaced by a Pico for that other 3-way, if any of that matters). The white on the 6ANS is currently connected to those other 3 whites. So I'm not sure what you mean by separating them....> To use a mechanical switch with the 6ANS you have to rewire the switch. You are using it like a contact closure. If the 6ANS sees a change in voltage on the blue terminal, it will toggle the load. The link to the Caseta advanced instructions is below: http://www.lutron.com/TechnicalDocum...structions.pdf[/QUOTE] I've referred to that page many times throughout this process! But I wasn't referring to trying the 6ANS in another 3-way (with a mechanical switch) someplace for testing purposes, but rather putting it in place of a regular, single-pole switch controlling a wall outlet: try it in as simple a configuration as possible and see if it then would properly control the LED fixture.thx!

I had the exact same issue with the PD-6ANS and PD-5ANS. I called Lutron, the support person there suggested the PD-5WS-DV might be more forgiving with the capacitor and better handle turning on the fluorescent. I haven't gotten one yet or tried it, but I'm hoping it works. I like that it's two-wire also.