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I currently have an old school manual switch that controls two outlets. We have two bedside lamps plugged into those outlets for lower level light. Can the RRD-8ANS be used to control this setup? I also haven't checked to see if there is a neutral yet, which then I assume would change the device to another model, that number escapes me right now.
p.s. not sure what happened to the font while typing, tried to paste a model number and it changed the font.
Erik
I think I found the other part number, RRD-8s-dv
Ekkoville - Depends on the load in the lamps. You should be able to use the recently introduced RRD-6CL which will accommodate LED bulbs in the lamps, or incandescents.
Thanks for the response. Can the RRD-6CL be set to switched or non-dimming mode in the software? I know some can do that.
I'm not aware of any RA2 devices that can be set this way in software. You can set the rate to turn on and fade off, but that can be overridden at the switch. At least that's my experience.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ekkoville
By code you cannot have a dimmer control an outlet unless the outlet is a dimmable. For this application we would recommend installing a keypad at the switch location and the wiring the outlets to be constantly hot. Then use the lamp modules to control the lamps and have the keypad programmed to turn the lamps on and off. This also give you the ability to turn the lamps on and off independently.
y.
Craig - While i hadn't appreciated the code aspect, i'm not sure i understand the comment "...unless the outlet is dimmable". Can you expand on this? Thanks
There are special receptacles where only a special plug can fit into the dimmed receptacle. You put a new plug ont he end of your lamp, and that way only the lamp can be plugged into the outlet...
see more here: http://files.lutron.com/hwi/TRG/366-...eceptacles.pdf
I've used these Receptacles and Plugs for Dimming Use before with good success. The downside is you have to re-wire the lamps.
My recommendation is to get two of the plug-in lamp dimmers and replace the old school switch with a Pico to turn all lamps on and off with individual control at the bedside. You could have options to hide the plug-in module(s) and have Picos at the bedside that do any config of one/both on off/dim
Another option would be to put a keypad where the switch was.Quote:
Originally Posted by schalliol
I like the Pico idea, so essentially I could have one Pico at the door entrance and even one at each side of the bed if I wanted control of both lamps. I didn't know that was possible, can all three Pico's be programmed to control both lamp modules?Quote:
Originally Posted by schalliol
Yes, you can set all three Picos to control the lamp modules. You might like to be able to independently control each unit, which you would have if you used the tabletop dimmer.
Exactly what I did in my master bedroom with the switched receptacles / light switch. Wired permanently hot, replaced switch with a keypad and use lamp dimming modules.Quote:
Originally Posted by rapamatic
For those considering using dimmers on switched receptacles. What happens (and it probably will sooner or later) to your dimmer when an inductive load gets plugged in (like a vacuum cleaner).
You can also cut in 8ANS next to the plug, above it, or change the single box to a 2 gang and put the 8ANS in the same box. Switch half the plug(1/2 hot) and hot the other 1/2. We do it all the time where a lamp dimmer is not visually acceptable. Just had a house with 4 two gang location being controlled from Home Control. Switch/plug are behind cabinets.
Another question regarding the keypads mentioned: would a RRD?W5BRLIR work in order to allow the IR control from the URC remote? Seems like it would work perfect in conjunction with the lamp dimmers.
So just to circle back to this: assuming a neutral is available, the 8ANS can be used to control a non-dimmable outlet, correct?
Thanks
Yup. Just don't exceed 8 amps. If you need full 16 amps, use the softswitch, but you need Inclusive.
You didn't ask, but you can use the receptacle for dimming of you want to be able to dim with a 6CL or 6D (you have to re-wire the lamp).
The upside being the plug you'd attach will still allow the lamp to be plugged into a regular outlet. So if the lamp needed to be moved elsewhere it'd still work just fine in a regular outlet.Quote:
Originally Posted by schalliol
Lots of people skip around code restrictions against dimming outlets. You're not supposed to set up a plain outlet as dimmable. Because powering devices not expecting to have dimmer control on their AC supply could introduce risk of damage (to the devices AND the dimmer) and potentially cause a fire.
It's a shame Lutron hasn't gotten around to making an on-wall dimmer for RA2 (like the one already available for Caseta). It'd be a much more convenient solution than using the in-line or tabletop dimmers, in quite a few situations.
Choice is nice, but wow, those on wall dimmers are ugly. I think that's why they haven't made a RR2 version.
I've re-wired using the full and half duplex recepticals for dimming use a number of times over the years, and it's not too bad but I agree not something most individuals would do. I suppose you could make a cabLe that converts to an Edison so you wouldn't have to destroy the original cable, but you'd need to put some locking system on the outside of the cable there such that it couldn't be removed easily and a toaster plugged in. That might meet the NEC, but not sure. The last I checked the code, it wasn't specific to any particular plugs. I think it would be safer than what Lutron is doing with Caseta on wall, because you could easily plug anything into those.
I'd like a switchable outlet that expects a 120V wire incoming. You could do a dimmer in it with a plug for dimming too I guess. In my own home, I have a number of RR2 lamp dimmers that aren't controlled locally at the same time as I have a switched outlet that's in the wrong spot in the room. With these in wall switches, you'd just skip all the switched outlet runs, so it would be cheaper.
Well, beauty is in the eye of the beholder. I didn't say I wanted the Caseta plastics, those are indeed hideous. It's almost as if they deliberately made them ugly because someone in HWQS or RA2 whined about it potentially cannibalizing their sales. That, they accomplished. I'm kidding, no.... serious, no... just sad.
I suppose some folks would want the full range of Lutron colors, but I'd be fine with just -SW and -MN.
I like on-wall for a number of situations where you might need to rearrange things. Like phone chargers or holiday lighting. Or two lamps on endtables alongside a couch with an outlet behind it. Or just an outlet needed for some other intermittent uses. Yeah, it breaks the notion of a fixed-in place automated network of devices, but so do the in-line gizmos.
I confess, I've had to lash together nonsense with table dimmers and extension cords, talk about ugly. But at least those can be crammed under the couch, until someone blindly runs the vacuum over them... On wall would be a welcome solution. Meanwhile, cheap Picos and pedestals are a win for this!
I'm guessing there's some "issues" with how wall outlets would be used. They'd certainly force the issue by making a dual purpose controllable in-wall dimmer if they made it use the special socket! How about one line, one controlled? Trouble is, which side should which? In the old days of ungrounded, un-polarized outlets it didn't matter. No doubt whichever got chosen, someone would complain. Two independently switchable (note, not dimmable) outlets in a single gang would be awesome.